I never ate mussels when I was young. The first time I tasted them was in the early 80s when my son ordered them at a restaurant. They were bright orange and served in their shells. They had a texture like rubber, little taste, and a bit of an off smell. That day did not turn me into a mussel fanatic.

A decade later I was sitting at a café in Marseilles. There were, of course, many fish items on the menu and I decided it was time to give mussels another try. The result this time was much different. I savored each mussel as I removed it from its shell and popped it in my mouth. I then sopped up all the soup with bread. I probably would have licked the bowl if I had not been in a public place. That day was the start of my love affair with mussels. Since then I’ve eaten mussels in many different forms, cooked in many different ways, and in many different settings.

When I started to look into various sources for information about mussels, I was surprised to learn that mussels were not all that common on the American scene until the 1970s. It turns out that mussels were common in the waters off the eastern sea coast when the Pilgrims came, but they did not indulge in them because the local Indians said they were toxic. Besides, there were plenty of oysters and clams to feed anyone’s desire for shellfish. Thus, mussels did not evolve as a staple in the American diet.

Mussels have been cultivated in France since the 13th century. The industry was actually started by a shipwrecked Irishman! Today, most mussels consumed in France are cultivated. Likewise, in the United States most of our mussels are cultivated. They are primarily grown in the northeastern portion of the country or eastern Canada.

Although great out of the shell after a brief steaming, mussels can also be used as an ingredient in other more complicated dishes. The nine dishes I’m offering here include a variety of preparation methods.

 

moules à la moutarde
1 small
shallot, minced
60 ml (1⁄4 c)
dry white wine
450 g (1 lb)
fresh mussels, cleaned
1 T
strong Dijon‑style mustard
80 ml (1⁄3 c)
heavy cream
pinch
saffron
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. 
Place shallots and wine in a large, heavy saucepan and bring to boil over high heat. Add mussels and steam for about 3 minutes until the shells open. Remove mussels from saucepan, draining liquid back into pot. Discard any shells that do not open. Divide mussels among individual serving bowls and set aside.
2. 
Strain cooking liquid and return to saucepan. Add cream, mustard, saffron, salt, and pepper and reduce. Pour over cooked mussels and serve.
Yield: 2 servings as a first course.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, June 1997, page 30.

 

moules au beurre de poivrons rouges
120 ml (1⁄2 c)
dry white wine
10 large
fresh mussels
120 ml (1⁄2 c)
heavy cream
110 g (4 oz)
roasted red peppers, drained well, 6‑mm (1⁄4‑in) dice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 T
cold unsalted butter
1 T
finely minced chives
1. 
Bring wine to a boil in a large saucepan. Add mussels, cover, and cook until the shells open. Transfer mussels to a bowl. Working over the bowl to catch all the mussel juice, remove the meat from the shells. Place the mussel meats in a warm oven. Separate the shell halves. Reserve the top shells and arrange on serving plates. Place plates in a warm oven.
2. 
Bring the mussel juice to a boil in a frying pan. Add cream, reduce heat, and reduce until thick. Add red peppers, salt, and pepper. Heat through.
3. 
Place one mussel in each shell. Set aside.
4. 
Remove sauce from heat and add butter. Emulsify. Add chives. Top mussels with sauce.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisiner!, November 1998, page 42.

 

moules au bouillon
1
shallot, minced
80 ml (1⁄3 c)
light‑colored beer
80 ml (1⁄3 c)
beef broth
80 ml (1⁄3 c)
heavy cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
700 g (11⁄2 lb)
fresh mussels, cleaned
1⁄2 T
minced fresh parsley
1. 
Place shallots, beer, and broth in a large, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Add cream, salt, and pepper. When boiling again, add mussels and steam for about 3 minutes until the shells open.
2. 
Remove mussels from saucepan, draining liquid back in pot. Discard any that do not open. Divide mussels between individual serving bowls. Strain sauce and pour over mussels. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisiner!, January 1997, page 36.

 

moules aux herbes fraîches
700 g (11⁄2 lb)
fresh mussels, cleaned
225 ml (1 c)
water
3 T
thinly sliced roasted red peppers
vinaigrette:
1 T
sherry vinegar
1 T
balsamic vinegar
1⁄2 t
salt
dash
freshly ground black pepper
80 ml (1⁄3 c)
oil
3 T
finely minced shallots
2 T
fresh basil leaves, chiffonade
1 T
minced fresh thyme
2 T
minced chives
2 T
minced flat‑leaf parsley
1. 
Whisk together the first 5 vinaigrette ingredients. Add shallots and herbs, mix, and set aside.
2. 
Bring water to a full boil in a large saucepan. Add mussels and steam for about 3 minutes until the shells open.
3. 
Drain mussels and discard any that do not open. Mix gently with vinaigrette and red peppers. Divide mussels between the serving dishes and pour leftover sauce over mussels.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Gerald Hirigoyen, Bistro, 1995, pages 13 and 50.

 

moules farcies gratinées au pastis
120 ml (1⁄2 c)
white wine
120 ml (1⁄2 c)
water
12
mussels, cleaned
1 + 2 T
unsalted butter
45 g (11⁄2 oz)
minced shallots
1 small clove
garlic, minced
1 T
minced parsley
2 T
pastis
1 extra‑large
egg yolk, beaten
1. 
Preheat oven to 220°C (430°F).
2. 
Bring wine and water to a boil in a saucepan large enough to hold the mussels in a single layer. Add mussels, cover, and poach until the shells just open. Remove from heat and drain. Remove mussels from shells and place in individual ceramic escargot dishes. Set aside.
3. 
In a small saucepan, melt 1 T butter over low heat. Add shallots and sweat for about 5 minutes. Add garlic, parsley, and pastis. Melt remaining butter, set aside to cool slightly. Temper egg yolk with hot butter. Beat lightly until creamy. Combine shallot and egg mixtures.
4. 
Divide butter mixture among mussels. Place dishes in oven and cook until golden, about 9 minutes.
5. 
Serve hot.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: adapted from Linda Dannenberg, Paris Bistro Cooking, 1991, page 80.

 

moules marinière braderie de Lille
1
onion, finely diced
1
celery rib, finely diced
1 large sprig
thyme
225 ml (1 c)
dry white wine
700 to 900 (11⁄2 to 2 lb)
fresh mussels, cleaned
freshly ground black pepper
3 T
minced flat‑leaf parsley
1. 
Place onion, celery, thyme, and wine in a large pot over high heat, cover, and bring to a boil. Add mussels and cook, covered, for 5 minutes.
2. 
Remove mussels and divide between serving bowls. Top with pepper and parsley. Discard thyme sprig and divide cooking liquid over mussels.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Patricia Wells, Bistro Cooking, 1989, page 150.

 

salade de moules à la mayonnaise au cari
1
red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, 1‑cm (3⁄8‑in) squares
1
small green apple, peeled, cored, 1‑cm (3⁄8‑in) dice
1 T
minced shallots
½ T
finely minced fresh basil
11⁄2 T
finely minced fresh parsley
11⁄2 T
mayonnaise
1⁄2 t
curry powder
salt and freshly ground black pepper
dash
cayenne
140 g (5 oz)
russet potato, peeled, 1‑cm (3⁄8‑in) dice
350 g (3⁄4 lb)
mussels in the shell, scrubbed and beards removed
225 ml (1 c)
water
1. 
Combine red pepper, apple, shallots, basil, parsley, mayonnaise, curry powder, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Set aside.
2. 
Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Add potatoes and cook for 8 minutes. Drain and set aside.
3. 
When potatoes are almost done, bring 225 ml (1 cup) water to boil in a large saucepan. Add mussels and cook for about 2 minutes. Drain the mussels and discard any that have not opened. Remove mussels from the shells and add to salad mixture along with potatoes.
4. 
Mix gently and serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Gerald Hirigoyen, Bistro, 1995, page 42.

 

salade de moules, sauce thaïlandaise
1⁄2 t
pureed or finely crushed garlic
1 t
grated fresh ginger
1 T
fresh lime juice
100 ml (7 T)
heavy cream
salt and freshly ground white pepper
10 medium
fresh basil leaves, chiffonade
1⁄2 head
butter lettuce
700 g (11⁄2 lb)
fresh mussels, cleaned
1. 
In a mixing bowl, combine garlic and ginger with lime juice. Incorporate the cream. Season with salt and pepper and add the basil. Mix well and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes.
2. 
Arrange 4 or 5, medium‑size, light‑colored lettuce leaves on individual serving plates. Chill.
3. 
Place a large, covered frying pan with a small amount of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Add the mussels and cook, covered, just until the shells are all open. Drain the cooked mussels, and remove the mussel meat from the shells. Gently squeeze the mussels to expel any further juices.
4. 
Combine the mussels with the dressing and divide between the serving plates. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, January 1998, page 18.

 

soupe de moules glacée aux poivrons
900 g (2 lb)
fresh mussels, cleaned
75 ml (5 T)
heavy cream
1
shallot, minced
freshly ground black pepper
1
roasted red pepper, diced
2 leaves
basil, minced
1. 
Place mussels, cream, shallot, and pepper in a deep saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. When the mussels have opened, remove from heat. Pour contents into a strainer set over a large bowl.
2. 
Remove the mussels from the shells, reserving the liquid in the bowl. Set aside to chill in the refrigerator. Discard the shells. Strain the cooking liquid through a chinois and set aside to chill in the refrigerator.
3. 
To serve, divide mussels between serving bowls and arrange in mounds. Carefully divide the cooking liquid between the bowls around the mussels. Top mussels with red pepper and basil.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guy Savoy, from www.guysavoy.com, April 27, 1999.

 

©2000, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.