Strawberry season, saison de fraises, used to be a few short, sweet weeks each summer. Nowadays, due to improved transportation and storage, strawberries can be obtained almost all year long in France or the United States, but the strawberries of summer are still the best. When strawberries were less common, a simple bowl of hulled and halved berries with a little sugar sprinkled on top was a special treat. Extra berries were made into jams or preserves because we knew that they would rapidly spoil. Today, partly because of their ready availability, we eat our strawberries in many different forms. And in France, strawberry desserts are both common and varied.

 

Strawberries, part of the rose family, are perennial plants. Other fruits in this family include raspberries, blackberries, peaches, and apples. The modern strawberry is a hybrid that resulted by the chance cross pollination, in eighteenth-century Europe, of two native American strawberries — the Virginia “scarlet” strawberry of Eastern North American and the Chilean strawberry found up-and-down along the whole Pacific Coast — which had been collected in the New World by early explorers. MORE

Strawberries, part of the rose family, are perennial plants. Other fruits in this family include raspberries, blackberries, peaches, and apples. The modern strawberry is a hybrid that resulted by the chance cross pollination, in eighteenth-century Europe, of two native American strawberries — the Virginia “scarlet” strawberry of Eastern North American and the Chilean strawberry found up-and-down along the whole Pacific Coast — which had been collected in the New World by early explorers. In France, Jean de La Quintinie, gardener to Louis XIV, is credited with growing the Virginia-Chilean hybrid at the start of the eighteenth century, but he probably was not the first. The Chilean strawberry contributed size and firmness to the new fruit while the Virginia strawberry contributed flavor and productivity.1

The Larousse Gastronomique lists 17 varieties of cultivated strawberries, or fraises, of various shapes and sizes that grow in the different regions of France. In addition, many of the strawberries sold in France are imported from Spain where the growing season is longer. Also available are the small wood strawberries, or fraises des bois, found in the wild. Although native to France, 11 varieties of these strawberries can be found in North America and other parts of the world.2

1. EB Poling, Proceedings: 1999 Arkansas Strawberry Plasticulture Workshop.
2. J Robuchon, Larousse Gastronomique, pgs 481-4.  LESS

 

When buying strawberries, choose only those berries that are bright red and still have their leafy calyx firmly attached. Once the calyx is removed from the berry, ascorbic acid oxidase, an enzyme that destroys vitamin C, is released by the torn cells. MORE

Strawberries do not ripen any further once they have been picked. They should be purchased as soon as possible after they are picked, and used shortly after that. Warm temperatures can cause the strawberries to brown since the pigment that makes a strawberry red is heat sensitive.

Strawberries should be stored unwashed in a refrigerator. Only when it is time to use the berries should they be washed. To wash strawberries, place them in a bowl, fill it with cold water, swirl the berries gently with your hand, and drain them immediately in a strainer. Dry the strawberries on absorbent paper. The strawberries will start to lose color and flavor if they sit in the water too long.

Hull the strawberries with a small knife. First remove the leaves from the green calyx without disturbing the stem. Using the tip of the knife, remove a small cone of white pulp around the stem. Trim any soft or spoiled parts from the berry and cut it into the size required for the recipe. LESS

 

When you purchase strawberries at the store you may think you are buying a type of fruit, but the red “berry” is actually an enlarged flower stem. MORE

The little yellow “seeds” covering the outside of the surface of the strawberry are really small, single seed fruits called achenes. Ironically, if a seed inside an achene does produce an offspring, it is unlikely that it will be useful as a fruit-bearing plant. Propagation in strawberries is accomplished by using the runner plants that grow from the shoots the strawberry uses to spread itself throughout the garden. These new plants are genetically equivalent to the original plant. LESS

 

 

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

 

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bavarois de fraises au fromage blanc
350 g (34 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered
100 g (14 lb)
fromage blanc
50 ml (3 T)
heavy cream
3 g (1 large leaf)
gelatin
70 g (9 T)
powdered sugar
juice from 12
lemon
2
mint sprigs [optional]
1. Combine 100 g (14 lb) of strawberries with 25 g (313 T) of powdered sugar and set aside.
2. Combine the remaining 250 g (12 lb) of strawberries with 35 g (423 T) of powdered sugar and lemon juice in a small blender and puree. Strain the mixture through a fine strainer. Reserve a quarter of the puree for decoration. Combine the other three quarters with the fromage blanc. Whisk until smooth. Set aside.
3. Combine the heavy cream with the remaining 10 g (4 t) of powdered sugar and whisk until stiff. Whisk into the strawberry‑cheese mixture. Set aside.
4. Soften the gelatin in some cold water. When soft, place the gelatin in a small saucepan with a few drops of water. Place over medium heat and heat just enough to melt the gelatin. Remove from the heat immediately, and whisk into the strawberry‑cheese‑cream mixture.
5. Pour a few tablespoons of the strawberry mixture into two small brioche molds. Add a layer of macerated strawberry pieces. Continue to divide the strawberry mixture among the molds. Carefully cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 4 hours.
6. To serve, place the molds in warm water a few seconds to loosen up the gelatin mixture. Carefully upturn each on a serving plate. Decorate the plate with the reserved strawberry coulis and the remaining macerated strawberries. Decorate the tops with mint sprigs.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, April 1998, page 48.

 

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charlotte aux fraises
300 g (34 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled and thickly sliced
finely granulated sugar
3 leaves (about 12 g)
gelatin
150 g (34 c)
granulated sugar
100 ml (scant 12 c)
water
24
soft lady fingers
50 ml (3 T)
Grand Marnier
250 g (12 lb)
fromage blanc
75 g (212 oz)
ground almonds
200 ml (scant 1 c)
heavy cream, whisked until stiff
1. Wash, hull, and thickly slice the strawberries. Sprinkle with a little finely granulated sugar and set aside.
2. Soften the gelatin in a glass of cold water. Place the sugar and water in a small sauce pan and bring to a boil. When boiling, remove from heat and cool slightly. Add the softened gelatin and stir until the gelatin is dissolved. Set aside.
3. In the meantime, line a 16‑cm (6‑in) charlotte mold with the lady fingers. Carefully brush the lady fingers with the Grand Marnier. Set aside.
4. Using a spatula, combine the fromage blanc with the almonds. Whisk the gelatin mixture into the cheese mixture. When smooth, whisk in the whipped cream. Finally, stir in the strawberries.
5. Carefully fill the mold with the filling mixture. Level top. Using a serrated knife, trim any lady fingers extending above the edge of the mold. Refrigerate until firm, about 3 hours.
6. Remove from the mold and serve. Slice with a serrated knife. Serve with a coulis made from red fruits.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Ref: ELLE à Table, May‑June 1999, page 144.

 

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cheesecake aux fraises
90 g (3 oz)
biscuits petit beurre (French butter cookies)
48 g (123 oz)
soft unsalted butter
125 ml (12 c)
heavy cream
12 t
vanilla extract
grated zest from 1
lime
2 leaves (about 8 g)
gelatin, softened in cold water
juice from 112
limes
2 large
eggs, separated
fine salt
90 g (7 T)
granulated sugar
210 g (12 lb)
fromage blanc, drained
about 250 g (12 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled and halved
1. Prepare the sides and base of a 18‑cm (7‑in) spring‑form baking pan with parchment paper.
2. Chop the biscuits in a food processor until homogenous. Add the butter and continue to process until evenly mixed. Pour the mixture into the prepared baking pan. Level the crumbs and press into place with your fingers. Set aside in the refrigerator until needed.
3. Whisk the cream until stiff. Mix in the vanilla extract and lime zest. Set aside.
4. Drain the gelatin leaves and place with the lime juice in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir the mixture until the gelatin melts completely. Remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside.
5. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until firm. Add 30 g (213 T) of the sugar and continue whisking until very stiff. Set aside.
6. Combine the egg yolks and 60 g (423 T) sugar in a large bowl. Whisk until lightened. Add in order, and whisk in thoroughly, the fromage blanc, the whipped cream mixture, and the gelatin‑lime juice mixture. Finally, fold in the beaten egg whites.
7. Pour half the batter into the spring‑form and level. Arrange the strawberries, reserving 6 to 8 nice halves, on the batter. Add the remaining batter. Level the top with a small spatula. Refrigerate for 6 hours until firm.
8. At the moment of service, remove the cake from the mold and serve.
Yield: 8 servings.
Ref: Cuisiner!, June 1997, page 11.

 

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crèmes chiboust aux fraises et aux amandes
2 extra‑large
eggs, separated
8 drops
bergamot oil
40 g (313 T)
granulated sugar
20 g (213 T)
all‑purpose flour
200 ml (scant 12 c)
milk
1
vanilla bean, split
fine salt
150 g (13 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled, quartered lengthwise
sliced almonds
raw sugar
1. In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks, bergamot oil, and granulated sugar. Add flour and mix until smooth. In a small saucepan, bring milk and vanilla to a boil. Remove from heat, cover, and set aside to infuse for 5 minutes. Discard vanilla bean and reheat milk to a new boil. Whisk milk into egg‑yolk mixture and then pour the whole mixture back into the saucepan. Return the saucepan to the heat and stir with a wooden spoon until smooth and thickened. Remove from the heat, transfer to a clean bowl, and press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Let cool completely before using.
2. Beat the egg whites with a little salt until firm. Fold the “pastry cream” into the egg whites, and then combine the mixture with the strawberries.
3. Divide the strawberry mixture among large ramekins. Level the tops with a spatula. Sprinkle the tops with a few almond slices and then with raw sugar. Cover and refrigerate if not being cooked immediately.
4. Preheat broiler.
5. Put the ramekins on a baking sheet and place under a broiler to brown the tops, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, April 2000, page 6.

 

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fraises aux fruits d’or
200 g (12 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled, cut lengthwise into quarters
200 g (12 lb)
fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, cut into pieces to match the strawberries
100 g (14 lb)
banana, peeled, halved lengthwise, sliced into pieces to match the strawberries
100 ml (scant 12 c)
fresh, strained orange juice
2 T
granulated sugar
2 T
kirsch, or other eau de vie
2
mint sprigs [optional]
1. Gently combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Macerate in a refrigerator for a couple of hours. Gently stir occasionally.
2. Divide fruit among serving dishes. Moisten with a little of the liquids. Decorate with mint sprigs.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Paul Bocuse, La Cuisine du Marché, page 475.

 

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fraises Romanoff
100 ml (scant 12 c)
strained orange juice
2 T
lemon juice
112 T
curaçao or Grand Marnier
1 T
granulated sugar
250 g (12 lb)
strawberries, quartered lengthwise
100 ml (scant 12 c)
chilled heavy cream
2 t
finely granulated sugar
14 t
vanilla extract
2
mint sprigs
1. Combine the orange juice, lemon juice, curaçao, and granulated sugar in a bowl and mix well. Add strawberries and carefully mix. Place in refrigerator and macerate for a couple of hours.
2. Just before serving, whisk together the cream, finely granulated sugar, and vanilla extract until firm but not stiff.
3. Using a slotted spoon, divide the strawberries between serving bowls. Add a little of the strawberry liquid. Top with some of the whipped cream. Decorate with a mint sprig.
Note: Alternatively, combine the whipped cream with the strawberry liquid.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Françoise Bernard and Alain Ducasse, La Bonne Cuisine, page 284.

 

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gratins de fraises à la brioche
50 g (14 c)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
125 ml (12 c)
sweet white wine
65 g (14 c)
heavy cream, whipped firm
150 g (13 lb)
fresh strawberries, quartered
2 slices (about 4‑cm [112‑in] thick)
brioche, toasted, cut into 4‑cm (112‑in) cubes
1. Whisk together sugar and yolks until light. Mix in wine. Whisk mixture in a bowl over boiling water until thickened and tripled in volume. Remove from heat and continue whisking until cool. Combine with whipped cream.
2. Coat the bottom of large ramekins with the sauce. Arrange about half the strawberries and bread cubes in a single layer in the ramekins. Coat the strawberries with sauce. Repeat with the remaining strawberries and bread. Top with the remaining sauce. The ramekins may be refrigerated until needed.
3. Preheat broiler. Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and brown under a broiler for a minute. Watch carefully.
4. Place the gratin dishes on serving dishes and serve.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, April 2001, page 23.

 

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©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

 

 

gratins de fraises orange-poivre
200 g (12 lb)
strawberries, quartered lengthwise
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
80 g (6+ T)
granulated sugar
125 ml (12 c)
strained orange juice
freshly‑ground white pepper
2
mint sprigs
1. Preheat broiler.
2. Arrange the strawberry pieces in two gratin dishes. Set aside.
3. Off the heat, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar in the top of a double boiler. Add the orange juice and combine. Whisk the mixture over boiling water until thickened. Add a little white pepper, to taste.
4. Divide the sauce over the strawberries, but only use enough to cover the base of the dish. Allow some of the berry tips to show through the sauce. Brown under a broiler for 1 to 2 minutes. Watch carefully.
5. Place the gratin dishes on serving dishes, top with a mint sprig, and serve.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, April 2001, page 54.

 

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milk-shake aux fraises
150 g (13 lb)
strawberries, hulled and quartered
250 ml (1 c)
whole milk
30 g (2+ T)
granulated sugar
12 t
vanilla extract
12 g (12 oz)
white or dark chocolate shavings
1. Place strawberries in a blender and puree. Add a little milk if some liquid is needed. After a puree is achieved, add the milk, sugar, and vanilla extract. Continue to blend at high speed for a couple of minutes until foamy.
2. Serve the “milkshake” in tall glasses decorated with the chocolate shavings.
3. Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, May 2000, page 58.

 

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©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

 

 

mousses de fraises à la coriandre
150 g (13 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered
6 leaves
fresh coriander, finely minced
40 g (313 T)
granulated sugar
125 ml (12 c)
heavy cream
1 extra‑large
egg white, beaten very firm
décoration:
1
fresh strawberry, hulled and halved
2 leaves
fresh coriander
1. Puree the strawberries in a food mill. There should be about 100 g (14 lb) of finished puree. Combine with the coriander and sugar. Set aside.
2. Whip the cream until firm. Combine with the strawberry puree. Fold in the egg white.
3. Divide the mixture among the serving dishes and refrigerate until needed.
4. Just prior to serving, decorate each dish with half a strawberry and a coriander leaf.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, May 2000, page 30.

 

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©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

 

 

nage de rhubarbe au jus de fraises
125 g (14 lb)
peeled and trimmed rhubarb, cut into 1‑cm (38‑in) square by 4‑cm (112‑in) long pieces
25 g (2 T)
granulated sugar
125 g (14 lb)
hulled strawberries, quartered
100 ml (scant 12 c)
water
a few drops
lemon juice
1. Toss the rhubarb with 10 g (212 t) of sugar and set aside.
2. Combine the remaining sugar with the strawberries, water, and lemon juice in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil. When a full boil is achieved, transfer the mixture to a food mill and puree it.
3. Combine the strawberry puree with the rhubarb in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 2 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and refrigerate for at least an hour.
4. Divide the rhubarb and some of the strawberry juice among serving plates.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guy Savoy, La Cuisine de Mes Bistrots, page 144.

 

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sirop de fraises
750 g (158 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered
125 ml (12 c)
water
600 g (3 c)
granulated sugar
1. Place the strawberries and water in a deep bowl. Cover. Macerate for at least 12 hours in a refrigerator. Stir occasionally.
2. Place a strainer over another deep bowl. Line the strainer with a large piece of butter muslin. Pour the macerated strawberries and any liquid in the bowl into the muslin lined strainer. Gather the corners of the muslin to make a bag. Using one hand to twist the top of the muslin “bag,” squeeze the strawberries to expel their juice. Continue to squeeze and massage the strawberries while tightening the top of the “bag” until only the seeds and hard pulp are left.
3. Place the juice in a saucepan with the sugar. If a lot of bad berries were discarded, reduce the sugar by a proportional amount. Bring the juice and sugar to a low boil over medium heat. Watch the mixture carefully so that it does not boil over. Skim any white foam that forms on the surface. Once the mixture comes to a boil, lower heat and continue to boil gently for 10 minutes.
4. Pour the cooked syrup into a clean bowl and set aside to cool. When cool, bottle the syrup.
Yield: About 12 l (1 pt).
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, May 2000, page 31.

 

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soufflé glacé aux fraises
100 g (12 c)
granulated sugar
water
2 extra‑large
egg whites
125 ml (12 c)
heavy cream
150 g (13 lb)
strawberry puree made from fresh or frozen berries
1
strawberry, cut for decoration
1. Place the sugar with a little water in a saucepan over high heat. When it starts to boil, reduce heat to medium and boil for about 5 minutes.
2. In the meantime, whisk egg whites until stiff. In a separate bowl, whisk cream until stiff.
3. When the sugar syrup is ready, slowly whisk the syrup into the beaten whites. Continue whisking until whites have cooled. Whisk in the whipped cream. Finally, fold in most of the strawberry puree, reserving 2 T for decoration. Sweeten the reserved puree with sugar if not sweet.
4. Place 2, 8‑cm (3‑in) diameter, rings on a parchment covered baking sheet. Line the rings with 6‑cm (238‑in) wide bands of parchment paper. Divide the strawberry mixture between the rings to about the 5‑cm (2‑in) level. Level tops. Place the “soufflés” in a freezer.
5. For serving, transfer the “soufflés” to serving plates. Carefully spread a tablespoon of reserved strawberry puree on top of each “soufflé” and top with half a fresh strawberry, cut into a fan.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guy Savoy, 120 Recettes comme à la maison, page 146.

 

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soupe de fraises au gingembre
125 g (58 c)
granulated sugar
125 ml (12 c)
water
12 T
fresh ginger, very finely julienned
250 g (12 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered
1. Place the sugar, ginger, and water in a saucepan over high heat. When the syrup comes to a boil, remove from heat and combine with the strawberries in a bowl.
2. Refrigerate for up to a day before serving.
Yield: 2  servings.
Ref: Laurent Duchêne, Cuisiner!, May 2000, page 18.

 

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soupe de fraises aux épices et olives confites
300 g (34 lb)
strawberries, hulled, halved or quartered, depending on size
a few drops
lemon juice
2 leaves
mint, finely minced
2 sprig tips
mint
1 order
olives confites
sirop:
250 ml (1 c)
red wine
50 g (14 c)
finely granulated sugar
12
vanilla bean, split lengthwise
zest, in strips, from 14
orange
juice from 12
orange
1
cinnamon stick
1 small pinch
powdered saffron
1. Place the syrup ingredients in a saucepan large enough to hold the strawberries as well as the syrup, and bring to a boil. Simmer the syrup for about 15 minutes. Add the strawberries and cook for about a minute more. Strain the strawberries and refrigerate. Chill the syrup separately in an water‑ice bath. Discard the zest. Wash and air dry the vanilla bean and the cinnamon stick.
2. Combine the strawberries with the chilled syrup, a few drops of lemon juice, and the minced mint. Macerate for 2 or 3 hours in a refrigerator.
3. Divide the strawberries among chilled serving plates. Mound up the strawberries in the center and decorate with a mint sprig, half a small cinnamon stick, and half a vanilla bean. Strew the olives over the strawberries. Add some of the syrup to each bowl.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Jacques Chibois, Le Bastide Saint‑Antoine, March 2001.

 

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tarte aux fraises
300 g (13 lb)
fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced lengthwise, end pieces discarded
3 T
red currant jam
pâte:
190 g (113 c)
all‑purpose flour
60 g (13 c)
sugar
8 g (2 t)
vanilla sugar
pinch
fine salt
100 g (7 T)
soft butter
40 g (138 oz)
beaten egg
crème d’amandes:
75 g (13 c)
soft butter
75 g (112 large eggs)
beaten egg
70 g (523 T)
sugar
22 g (212 T)
all‑purpose flour
75 g (223 oz)
ground almonds
1. For pâte: Combine the flour, sugar, vanilla sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Add butter and pulse just enough to distribute butter. Add egg and pulse enough to mix in the egg. Gather the dough into a ball and refrigerate for at least an hour, or overnight.
2. Preheat oven to 180°C (355°F). Butter a 10‑cm (4‑in) wide by 33‑cm (13‑in) long tart pan and set aside. Remove dough from refrigerator and bring it to room temperature.
3. Roll out dough and place in tart pan. Trim edges. Evenly poke bottom with a fork. Line dough with foil and pie weights. Blind bake for 15 minutes.
4. In the meantime, cream the butter and eggs together for the almond cream. When smooth, beat in sugar. When smooth again, beat in flour. When smooth once more, beat in ground almonds in batches.
5. Remove the blind‑baked tart shell from the oven, remove the weights and foil, and spread the almond cream into the tart shell. Bake for an additional 10 minutes, or until the center is cooked. Remove from oven and cool totally.
6. Arrange the sliced strawberries on the almond cream. Warm the currant jam slightly to liquefy and brush over the strawberries. Chill.
Yield: 6 servings.
Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, April 2001, page 22.

 

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©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.