fraises cannelle cafe pistache menthe noix_de_coco malaga caramel huile_olive
framboises peches cidre champagne fromage_blanc verveine poires amandes tomates

A trip to Paris isn’t really complete without a visit to Berthillon — arguably the best glace (ice cream) and sorbet store in the world. The French have been eating frozen desserts since the eigtheenth century, and they never miss an opportunity to slurp some up. On a warm day, there’s a long line outside the store for both seats and takeout.

Actually, the French word for ice cream is crème glacée, but I’ve only found this term in dictionaries, not cookbooks and magazines. The French term glace is more properly translated as “ice” and many classical recipes are more like modern sorbets than ice cream. Many of the sorbets found on menus in modern France would not actually fit Escoffier’s definition of that frozen dessert. In his time, sorbets were only made of fruit juices or wines. Often these frozen preparations were also mixed with beaten egg whites to make them smoother and lighter. Today’s sorbets made with fruit purées or herbal infusions would be termed glaces by Escoffier.

To better fit modern descriptions and to simplify translation, the recipes in this article are considered glaces (ice creams) if the base includes milk and/or cream, plus eggs. All the remaining preparations are sorbets. Whether a glace or sorbet, all the recipes start with a liquid base. This base is first partially frozen in an ice cream machine and then frozen firm in an ordinary freezer. For all the glaces, a cooked custard is prepared from milk and/or cream, egg yolks, sugar, and flavorings. The custard is chilled before placing it in the ice cream machine.

Depending on the ingredients, some preparations freeze faster or more completely than other preparations. The addition of alcohol to the recipe lowers the freezing point, so this type takes longer to freeze. Sorbet au champagne and sorbet au cidre brut both consist primarily of alcoholic liquids and barely solidify in the freezer. Although there are only a few tablespoons of alcohol in glace malaga, this preparation is soft enough to eat directly from the freezer because of the alcohol it contains.

Using fruit purées is common for modern sorbets. Sorbet aux pêches, sorbet aux framboises, and sorbet aux poires are three examples that can be made from either fresh, frozen, or canned fruit. Glaces — such as glace aux fraises — can also be flavored with fruit purées. Some of the fruit purées used today may be a bit less traditional, such as sorbet aux tomates rouges.

Infusions have also become popular in France as a source of flavor for sorbets. An example is sorbet à la verveine. Infusing the milk or cream used for glaces also produce some interesting flavors. Examples include glace à la menthe, glace à la noix de coco, and glace à la cannelle.

Other glaces included in this article have more conventional flavorings: glace à la caramel, glace au café, and glace à la pistache, although there also are more unusual flavorings, such as glace à l’huile d’olive.

Also included are sorbets which have flavorings that almost move them into the category of glaces. Two examples are sorbet au fromage blanc and sorbet au lait d’amandes.

The recipes included in the article can be modified extensively to fit individual tastes. Glaces can be made more rich by adding additional egg yolks or substituting cream for milk. If the ice crystals form too fast or too large during the freezing process, some powdered invert sugar can be substituted for the ordinary sugar. The amount substituted has to be reduced by half because the invert sugar is sweeter than granulated sugar. If powdered invert sugar is not available, honey can also be used.

Besides the fact that different bases freeze differently, different ice cream machines produce different results. All the recipes in this article have been tested in a one-pint capacity machine with a passive freezing canister chilled to about -22 °C (-8 °F). Generally, the initial freezing is accomplished in about 10 minutes with this machine. Larger machines and quantities will take more time. This is also the temperature required to firmly freeze the partially frozen mixtures tested. If your freezer is not capable of these temperatures, the alcohol based mixtures may not freeze sufficiently for serving.

The recipes in this article can literally be prepared in a few minutes. Glaces and sorbets prepared in the afternoon can easily be ready in time for the evening’s dessert.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

The diced strawberries in this recipe must be cut very small since the pieces will still be partially frozen when the ice cream is served. Alternatively, the strawberry pieces can be left out completely.

glace à la fraise
125 ml (12 c)
whole milk
125 ml (12 c)
heavy cream
12 t
vanilla extract
50 g (14 c)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
2 large (about 25 g[1 oz])
diced, fresh strawberries
40 g (112 oz)
fresh strawberry puree
1. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the liquids, stirring often, until they start to boil. Add vanilla extract and mix.
2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color.
3. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.
4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled. Add the diced and pureed strawberries. Mix well.
5. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
6. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Le Cordon Bleu Classic French Cookbook, page 126.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

Because different cinnamons have different strengths, the actual amount used in this recipe may have to be adjusted. Test the infusion periodically so that it doesn’t become too strong.

glace à la cannelle
125 ml (12 c)
whole milk
125 ml (12 c)
heavy cream
8 g (14 oz)
cinnamon sticks, broken in a few pieces
18 t
ground cinnamon
50 g (14 c)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
1. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the liquids, stirring often, until they start to boil. Remove from heat and add the two cinnamons. Cover and set aside to infuse for an hour.
2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color.
3. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.
4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.
5. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
6. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Rémy Janicot, Auberge du Schœnenbourg, March 2001.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

The best way to prepare the coffee used in this recipe is to catch the first 2 tablespoons of coffee produced by loading an espresso machine for a double shot of espresso.

glace au café
100 g (12 c)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
125 ml (12 c)
whole milk
125 ml (12 c)
heavy cream
1
vanilla bean
2 T
fresh, strong espresso coffee
1. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.
2. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Split vanilla bean lengthwise and scrap seeds into milk. Add vanilla pod to liquids. Carefully heat the milk mixture, stirring often, until it starts to boil. Set aside to steep for 5 minutes.
3. Remove vanilla bean from milk and discard. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Add the coffee and mix. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.
4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.
5. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
6. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Paul Bocuse, La Cuisine du Marché, page 463.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

If commercial pistachio paste is unavailable, pound 25 grams of shelled pistachios and 25 grams of sugar in a mortar until smooth. Dilute with a little grapeseed oil and color with a little green food coloring.

glace à la pistache
65 g (5+ T)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
250 ml (1 c)
whole milk
45 g (3 T)
pistachio paste
25 ml (scant 2 T)
heavy cream
1. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.
2. Put milk into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the milk, stirring often, until it starts to boil.
3. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Add the pistachio paste and mix. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.
4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled. Add cream and mix well.
5. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
6. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Note: If commercial pistachio paste is unavailable, pound 25 g (1 oz) of shelled pistachios and 25 g (1 oz) of granulated sugar in a mortar until smooth. Dilute with a little grapeseed oil and color with a little green food coloring.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Alain Ducasse & François Bernard, La Bonne Cuisine, page 277.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

The mint leaves for this recipe must be well washed and dried before use. This can be easily done by washing the bunch intact and then hanging it overnight in a refrigerator.

glace à la menthe
250 ml (1 c)
whole milk
12 bunch
fresh mint, leaves only, chopped
35 g (scant 3 T)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
1. Put milk into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the milk, stirring often, until it starts to boil. Remove from heat and add the chopped mint. Cover and set aside to infuse for an hour.
2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color.
3. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.
4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.
5. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
6. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Bernard Loiseau, Cuisine en Famille, page 246.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

This ice cream is somewhat chewy due to the pieces of dried coconut. A smoother version can be made by substituting coconut milk for most of the milk and all of the shredded coconut.

glace à la noix de coco
250 ml (1 c)
whole milk
45 g (112 oz)
sweetened, shredded coconut
50 g (14 c)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
12 T
rum
1. Place milk and coconut in a small bowl and macerate overnight in a refrigerator.
2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color.
3. Put milk and coconut into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the mixture, stirring often, until it starts to boil. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.
4. Pour the mixture into a bowl set in an ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled. Add rum and mix well.
5. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
6. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Le Cordon Bleu At Home, page 326.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

It is important not to skip or shorten the maceration of the raisins in the rum. Besides softening the raisins, the rum prevents the raisins from freezing solid into miniature ice cubes.

glace malaga
40 g (14 c)
raisins
2 T
dark rum
50 g (14 c)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
200 ml (1312 T)
whole milk
50 ml (313 T)
heavy cream
1. Combine the raisins and rum in a small bowl and macerate overnight.
2. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.
3. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the liquids, stirring often, until they start to boil.
4. Slowly whisk the milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.
5. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled. Add the macerated raisins and rum. Mix well.
6. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
7. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Frédéric Médigue, Le Château d’Amondans.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

It is important that a golden-brown caramel be prepared for this recipe. If too light, the ice cream will lack a caramel flavor; if too dark, the ice cream will have a bitter taste.

glace au caramel
150 g (34 c)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
250 ml (1 c)
whole milk
14 t
fresh lemon juice
1. Combine 75 g (6 T) sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.
2. Put milk in a small saucepan. Carefully heat the milk, stirring often, until it starts to boil. Set aside until needed.
3. Place the remaining 75 g (6 T) sugar in a heavy‑bottomed saucepan over medium‑high heat. Melt the sugar until a golden‑brown caramel is formed. Remove the saucepan from the heat and carefully stir in the lemon juice. Very slowly and carefully add the hot milk to the caramel, stirring constantly. If the caramel solidifies, return the pan to the heat to dissolve it.
4. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon.
5. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.
6. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
7. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Joël Robuchon (ed), Larousse Gastronomique, page 529.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

Olive oil-flavored ice cream seems to be the current rage in southern France these days. The finished ice cream has a very smooth, custard-like taste. Be sure to use a very high quality, pleasant tasting oil for this recipe.

glace à l’huile d’olive
25 g (2 T)
granulated sugar
2 extra‑large
egg yolks
170 ml (23 c)
whole milk
80 ml (13 c)
heavy cream
50 g (3 T)
fruity olive oil
1. Combine sugar and eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together until thoroughly mixed and the yolks lighten in color. Set aside.
2. Put milk and cream into a small saucepan. Carefully heat the milk mixture, stirring often, until it starts to boil.
3. Slowly whisk the hot milk mixture into the eggs and sugar. When combined and smooth, return the mixture to the saucepan. Stirring continuously, heat the mixture over medium heat until it begins to thicken and easily coats the back of a wooden spoon. Add the oil and mix.
4. Transfer the mixture into a bowl set in an water‑ice bath. Stir mixture until it is chilled.
5. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
6. Move the ice cream to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Christian Etienne, La Magie de la Tomate, page 93.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

Because the raspberries are puréed in this recipe, frozen berries work as well as fresh.

sorbet aux framboises
250 ml (1 c)
water
100 g (12 c)
granulated sugar
250 g (12 lb)
raspberries
1 T
lemon juice
1. Combine 125 ml (14 c) water with the sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Heat until the sugar is fully dissolved. Set aside to cool.
2. Combine the raspberries with the remaining water in a blender. Puree thoroughly. Strain through a fine strainer.
3. Combine the raspberry puree with the other ingredients and chill.
4. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
5. Move the sorbet to a refrigerator for a half hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Anne Willan, La Varenne Pratique, page 442.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

If starting with canned, peeled peaches, drain the peaches, reserving the packing syrup. Purée the peaches and strain through a fine strainer. If starting with fresh peaches, peel and stone the peaches — about 2 large peaches should be sufficient for one recipe. Poach the peaches in a syrup made of equal parts water and sugar until soft. Drain, reserving the poaching liquid. Purée the peaches and strain through a fine strainer.

sorbet aux pêches
250 g (12 lb)
peach puree
25 g (313 T)
powdered sugar, sifted
1 T
lemon juice
50 g (scant 14 c)
simple syrup
1. If starting with canned, peeled peaches, drain the peaches, reserving the packing syrup. Puree the peaches and strain through a fine strainer. If starting with fresh peaches, peel and stone the peaches. About 2 large peaches should be sufficient for one recipe. Poach the peaches in a syrup made of each parts water and sugar until soft. Drain, reserving the poaching liquid. Puree the peaches and strain through a fine strainer.
2. Combine the peach puree with the other ingredients and chill.
3. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
4. Move the sorbet to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Frédéric Médigue, Le Château d’Amondans.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

Because of the alcohol used in this recipe, the sorbet never freezes rock solid.

sorbet au cidre brut
250 ml (1 c)
dry Normandy‑style cider
70 g (13 c)
granulated sugar
30 g (1 oz)
invert sugar
112 T
lemon juice
30 ml (2 T)
calvados
1. Combine the first 4 ingredients in a small saucepan and heat until the sugars are dissolved. Strain though a fine strainer and add the calvados. Chill.
2. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Frédéric Médigue, Le Château d’Amondans.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

Inexpensive champange works fine for this recipe — save the good stuff for drinking with fine food.

sorbet au champagne
250 ml (1 c)
dry champagne
80 ml (13 c)
water
40 ml (3 T)
strained orange juice
60 g (13 c)
granulated sugar
1. Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and gently heat until the sugar dissolves. Chill.
2. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
3. Move the sorbet to a refrigerator for a few minutes before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: adapted from Le Cordon Bleu at Home, page 237.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

Choose a fromage blanc for this recipe that is somewhat loose and has not been drained to the point of being dry. As an option, some very finely minced lime zest can be added to the sorbet for texture.

sorbet au fromage blanc
125 g (12 c)
water
125 g (10 T)
granulated sugar
250 g (12 lb)
fromage blanc
juice from 1
lime
14 t
vanilla extract
1. Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan over high heat. When the sugar is fully dissolved, cool the syrup in a water bath.
2. Whisk together the syrup, fromage blanc, lime juice, and vanilla extract. Chill thoroughly.
3. Freeze mixture in ice cream maker until firm but not hard.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
Ref: Frédéric Médigue, Le Château d’Amondans, 2000.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

If fresh verbena leaves are available, use these instead of the dried — about 20 to 30 grams of clean leaves are required.

sorbet à la verveine
250 ml (1 c)
water
70 g (6 T)
granulated sugar
3 to 4 g (about 18 oz)
dried lemon verbena leaves, crushed
1. Combine the water and sugar in a small saucepan and heat until the sugar dissolves and the water starts to boil. Remove heat, add verbena, cover, and set aside to infuse for half an hour.
2. Strain mixture through a fine strainer. Chill.
3. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
4. Move the sorbet to a refrigerator for a few minutes before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: adapted from various sources.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

If starting with canned, peeled pears, drain the pears, reserving the packing syrup. Purée the pears and strain through a fine strainer. If starting with fresh pears, peel and core the pears — about 2 large pears should be sufficient for one recipe. Poach the pears in a syrup made of equal parts water and sugar until soft. Drain, reserving the poaching liquid. Purée the pears and strain through a fine strainer.

sorbet aux poires
250 g (12 lb)
pear puree
1 T
lemon juice
50 g (scant 14 c)
simple syrup
1 T
poire Williams
14 t
vanilla extract
1. If starting with canned, peeled pears, drain the pears, reserving the packing syrup. Puree the pears and strain through a fine strainer. If starting with fresh pears, peel and core the pears. About 2 large pears should be sufficient for one recipe. Poach the pears in a syrup made of each parts water and sugar until soft. Drain, reserving the poaching liquid. Puree the pears and strain through a fine strainer.
2. Combine the pear puree with the other ingredients and chill.
3. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
4. Move the sorbet to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: adapted from Le Cordon Bleu at Home, page 237.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

The almonds for this recipe must be very finely and uniformly ground. Almonds chopped in a food processor will not produce the fine texture required for this sorbet. Therefore, a nut grinder is recommended for preparing whole nuts for this recipe.

sorbet au lait d’amandes
40 ml (3 T)
water
160 ml (10 T)
whole milk
40 g (313 T)
granulated sugar
40 g (scant 112 oz)
ground, blanched almonds
1. Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer, cover, and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Chill.
2. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
3. Move the sorbet to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Frédéric Médigue, Le Château d’Amondans.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

This sorbet may be more appropriate as an intermezzo between courses than for dessert.

sorbet aux tomates rouges
300 g (34 lb)
very ripe tomatoes
100 g (12 c)
finely granulated sugar, sifted
75 ml (5 T)
water
1 T
lemon juice
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
a few drops
Tabasco sauce
1. Remove the stems from the tomatoes. Cut into quarters and puree in a blender. Strain the puree through a fine strainer.
2. Combine the tomato puree with the other ingredients and chill.
3. Freeze mixture in an ice cream machine. Harden in a freezer.
4. Move the sorbet to a refrigerator for an hour before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Christian Etienne, La Magie de la Tomate, page 100.

©2001, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.