pâte à choux

When it comes to pastry doughs, pâte à choux sits off in a class by itself. Whereas other doughs can be formed into various shapes, pâte à choux is so soft that it hardly supports itself before baking. Before baking, pâte à choux must either be spooned or piped into shape. Plus, pâte à choux contains eggs, in addition to flour and fat, which give the dough the ability to rise dramatically when baked. (And often collapse when cooled!)

Pâte à choux has been around for quite a while. According to Claude Juillet in Classic Patisserie: An A-Z Handbook,

In 1533, when Catherine de Medici left Florence to marry the Duke of Orleans who was later to become Henry II, King of France from 1547, she brought with her to France her entire court, which included her chefs. Seven years later in 1540, her head chef, Panterelli, invented a hot, dried paste with which he made gateaux. He christened the paste pâte à Panterelli.

The original recipe changed as the years passed, and so did the paste’s name. It became known as pâte à Popelini, which then became pâte à Popelin. Popelins were a form of cake made in the Middle Ages and were made in the shape of a woman’s breasts. A patissier called Avice perfected the paste in the middle of the eighteenth century and created choux buns. The pâte à Popelin became known as pâte à choux, since only choux buns were made from it. [And choux buns were the same shape as small cabbages. Choux is the French word for cabbages.] Antoine Carême in the nineteenth century perfected the recipe, and this is the same recipe for choux pastry as is used today.

Classic French cuisine from the mid-1950s is resplendent with dishes made from pâte à choux. Today, other than éclairs at one’s local patisserie, gougères served as an amouse-bouche in Burgundy, and croquembouches, stacks of profiteroles glued together with caramel, served for celebrations, many of the classic dishes based on pâte à choux are seldom found.

Whether used in sweet or savory dishes, the pâte à choux is prepared the same way, as explained below.

Cooking the pâte à choux — whether by baking, boiling, or frying — is performed as specified in individual recipes. The larger the piece of pâte à choux being cooked, the more critical the process becomes. Larger pieces need to be cooked longer to obtain a good rise from the dough and cooled slower to prevent collapsing.

In its simplest form, pâte à choux can just be formed into small balls with a couple of spoons and deep-fried as fritters as in beignets soufflés. When baked, the small balls become profiteroles, which can be filled with a myriad of sweet or savory items. Or cut the profiteroles open, and use them as pastry shells as in œufs pochés Bodin. Or the pâte à choux used can be flavored with cheese to make gougères, sometimes called chouquettes. Add a little bacon and voilà — gougères au lard. If the pâte à choux is boiled and served with a sauce you have gnocchi à la parisienne. If the pâte à choux is mixed with some potato puree and fried, the result is the classic garnish pommes dauphine. Baked into rectangular shapes and filled with pastry cream, pâte à choux becomes classic éclairs. Baked into round shapes, filled with pastry cream, and stacked, it becomes religieuse. But baked in a ring shape and filled with praline-flavored pastry cream, pâte à choux becomes the famous desert Paris-Brest.

Although the process of preparing dishes with pâte à choux may initially appear daunting, it is often much simpler than preparing dishes with other forms of pastry. Plus, items made with pâte à choux are more fun to eat!

It would be interesting to know the source of the name for these little fritters, since pets de nonne lally translates as “nun’s farts.” There is some evidence that they were commonly available in the eighteenth century.

Today, it is common to flavor these fritters with finely grated orange or vanilla. In the following recipe, orange blossom water, a common flavoring from centuries past, is used for a subtle hint of flavor.

beignets soufflés (pets de nonne)

55 ml (scant 1⁄4 c)

water

2 t

orange blossom water

32 g (2 T)

butter

1 t

finely granulated sugar

1⁄4 t

fine salt

65 g (scant 1⁄2 c)

all‑purpose flour

2 extra‑large

eggs

neutral vegetable oil, for deep frying

finely granulated (or powdered) sugar

1. Place the water, orange blossom water, butter, sugar, and fine salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add all the flour at one time. Return the saucepan to low heat and, using a wooden spoon, beat until the dough pulls away from the edge of the saucepan and is homogenous. Remove the pan from the heat again and allow the dough to cool for 5 minutes. Mix in the eggs, one at a time. Set the dough aside for a few hours.

2. Add the oil to a medium saucepan until it is a couple of inches deep. Be sure to allow space for the oil to expand during cooking. Heat the oil to 180°C (355°F) and hold it at that temperature.

3. Using a couple of small dessert spoons, form 2‑cm (3⁄4‑in) round balls of dough and drop them into the oil. Cook until the outsides are light brown. Remove each fritter when it is cooked and drain on absorbent paper.

4. Arrange the fritters in pyramids on individual servings plates and sprinkle with sugar. Serve warm.

Yield: 4 servings (about 16 small fritters).

Ref: Henri Babinski, Gastronomie Pratique, page 991; Joël Robuchon (ed), Larousse Gastronomique, page 787; Le Cordon Bleu at Home, page 130.

œufs pochés Bodin

vinegar for acidifying poaching water

4 large

eggs, shelled

pâte à choux:

60 ml (1⁄4 c)

water

33 g (2+ T)

butter

1⁄2 t

fine salt

45 g (5+ T)

all‑purpose flour

1 extra‑large

egg

sauce tomate:

1⁄2 T

butter

4 small (300 g [101⁄2 oz)])

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped

1 t

finely minced, fresh thyme

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

purée de haricots verts:

175 g (6 oz)

French beans, trimmed

1 T

butter

1 t

finely minced fresh thyme

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. For pâte à choux: Place the water, butter, and fine salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add all the flour at one time. Return the saucepan to low heat and, using a wooden spoon, beat until the dough pulls away from the edge of the saucepan and is homogenous. Remove the pan from the heat again and allow the dough to cool for 5 minutes. Mix in the egg.

2. Preheat an oven to 220°C (425°F).

3. Using a spatula, divide the dough into 4 equal mounds on a parchment paper‑lined baking sheet. Allow some space between the mounds for expansion during cooking. Bake for 10 minutes, until the dough starts to brown. Lower heat to 180°C (355°F) and continue baking for 20 minutes more. Prop the oven door slightly ajar with a wooden spoon and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes more.

4. Prepare the remainder of the recipe so each element is completed at the same time the dough is baked.

5. For sauce tomate: Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the tomatoes and cook. Lower heat as the cooking progresses. When the pulp is cooked through but all the juice has not evaporated, puree the sauce with a hand blender. Season with thyme, salt, and pepper. Set aside and keep warm until needed.

6. For purée de haricots verts: Boil the beans until they start to soften, but before they start to lose their color. Drain and cool in an ice bath. Drain well and puree in a food mill or small food processor. Place the puree in a strainer and drain any excess liquid for a few minutes. Heat 1⁄2 T butter in a small frying pan until it is slightly brown. Add the bean puree and heat through. Season the puree with the thyme, salt, and pepper. Finish the puree with the remaining 1⁄2 T of butter. Set aside and keep warm until needed.

7. Bring a large pot of acidified water to a boil. Reduce to simmer. Poach eggs for 3 minutes. Remove and drain on absorbent paper.

8. To plate, cut each puff in half crosswise. Place a bottom on each serving plate. Spoon the bean puree over the puff halves. Place a poached egg on top of the puree. Spoon the tomato sauce over each egg and place the other half of each puff on top. Serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings.

Ref: Jean and Pierre Troisgros, The Nouvelle Cuisine of Jean and Pierre Troisgros, page 108.

Gourgères are most often found only flavored with cheese, but in the following recipe, fine strips of bacon provide an additional layer of flavor. All sorts of items can be added to the cheese puffs — I once was served some delightful ones made with fine strips of tripe.

When being flavored with cheese only, the cheese is usually mixed into the dough instead of sprinkled on top, as it is here.

gougère au lard

35 g (1+ oz)

smoked bacon, cut into very fine strips

20 g (2⁄3 oz)

Comté cheese, finely grated

pâte à choux:

60 ml (1⁄4 c)

water

33 g (2+ T)

butter

1⁄4 t

fine salt

45 g (5+ T)

all‑purpose flour

1 extra‑large

egg

1. Cook the bacon in a frying pan over medium heat until it starts to color slightly. Drain very well on absorbent paper. Set aside.

2. For pâte à choux: Place the water, butter, and fine salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add all the flour at one time. Return the saucepan to low heat and, using a wooden spoon, beat until the dough pulls away from the edge of the saucepan and is homogenous. Remove the pan from the heat again and allow the dough to cool for 5 minutes. Mix in the egg.

3. Preheat an oven to 180°C (355°F).

4. Combine the dough with the cooked bacon and place the combination in a pastry bag fitted with a 1‑cm (3⁄8‑in) plain tip. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Pipe 6 to 8 walnut‑size mounds, about 8 cm (3 in) apart. Sprinkle each mound with grated cheese.

5. Bake for about 30 minutes until golden. Turn off oven and let the puffs cool to lukewarm with the oven door open.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Joël Perreault in Philippe Lamboley (ed), Saveur & Terroirs de Bourgogne, page 72; Linda Dannenberg, Paris Boulangerie‑Pâtisserie, page 105.

These gnocchi bear a slight physical resemblance to their Italian cousins, but in other ways they are quite different. These gnocchi are extremely tender and will feel very soft and delicate on the tongue. It is very important not to overcook the dough during the boiling so these do not fall apart.

There are many recipes for gnocchi à la parisienne. The principal difference between recipes seems to be whether a Béchamel or Mornay sauce is specified. The difference is actually slight since a Mornay sauce is just a Béchamel sauce with cheese added to it.

gnocchi à la parisienne

coarse salt

25 g (1 oz)

Gruyère cheese, grated

1 T

chilled butter, diced

sauce béchamel:

375 ml (11⁄2+ c)

whole milk

25 g (2 T)

butter

25 g (scant 3 T)

all‑purpose flour

freshly ground nutmeg, fine salt, and freshly ground black pepper

pâte à choux:

125 ml (1⁄2+ c)

whole milk

40 g (3 T)

butter

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

65 g (scant 1⁄2 c)

all‑purpose flour

2 extra‑large eggs

eggs

35 g (1+ oz)

Gruyère cheese, grated

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

2. For sauce béchamel: Bring the milk to a simmer over medium heat. In a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the flour. Cook the flour for a few minutes without allowing it to take on any color. Whisk in the milk and continue whisking until thickened. Season the sauce with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Keep warm until needed.

3. For pâte à choux: Place the milk, butter, fine salt, and black pepper in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add all the flour at one time. Return the saucepan to low heat and, using a wooden spoon, beat until the dough pulls away from the edge of the saucepan and is homogenous. Remove the pan from the heat again and allow the dough to cool for 5 minutes. Mix in the eggs, one at a time. Lastly, mix in the grated cheese. Transfer the dough to a pastry bag fitted with a 15 mm (5⁄8‑in) plain tip. Set aside.

4. Preheat a broiler.

5. Prepare the gratin dish by spreading a little of the sauce over the bottom.

6. Hold the dough‑filled pastry bag at the edge of the pot with the tip over the boiling water. Working very rapidly and using a small knife, cut off 2‑cm (3⁄4‑in) long sections of dough so they drop into the water. Cook the dumplings until they puff, about 3 minutes. Drain the dumplings well with a skimmer and place immediately into the gratin dish.

7. Top dumplings with the remaining sauce. Sprinkle the cheese and the chilled butter over the top.

8. Bake until the surface is browned, about 3 minutes.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Bernard Loiseau, Cuisine en Famille, page 54; Paul Bocuse, La Cuisine du Marché, page 377.

Pommes dauphine is a fixture in classic French cuisine, but is rarely seen on menus these days. That is unfortunate because these little potato puffs are really quite delightful.

Recipes differ as to the ratio of potato puree to choux pastry. Some use a ratio of two-to-one while others call for equal amounts. The ratio used in the following recipe is almost two-to-one.

It is important to maintain the oil temperature as specified. If the oil gets too hot, the puffs will brown and form a crust before they expand fully. The skin that forms will then split so the inside can expand. If the oil gets too cool, the puffs may absorb some oil and become greasy.

pommes dauphine

neutral vegetable oil, for deep frying

purée de pommes de terre:

400 g (scant 1 lb)

peeled new potatoes, cut into 2‑cm (3⁄4‑in) thick slices

1⁄2 t

fine salt

pâte à choux:

65 ml (1⁄4+ c)

water

32 g (2+ T)

butter

1⁄4 t

fine salt

65 g (scant 1⁄2 c)

all‑purpose flour

2 extra‑large

eggs

1. For purée de pommes de terre: Place the potatoes in a saucepan filled with salted water and bring to a boil. When cooked, drain and puree. Mix in the salt and set aside to cool.

2. For pâte à choux: Place the water, butter, and fine salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add all the flour at one time. Return the saucepan to low heat and, using a wooden spoon, beat until the dough pulls away from the edge of the saucepan and is homogenous. Remove the pan from the heat again and allow the dough to cool for 5 minutes. Mix in the eggs, one at a time. Combine the cooled potatoes with the dough and set aside until needed.

3. Add the oil to a medium saucepan until it is a couple of inches deep. Be sure to allow space for the oil to expand during cooking. Heat the oil to 180°C (355°F) and hold it at that temperature.

4. Using a couple of small dessert spoons, form quenelles of dough and drop them into the oil. Cook until the outsides are light brown. Remove each potato puff when it is cooked and drain on absorbent paper.

5. Serve as soon as possible. The potato puffs will loose their crispness the longer they sit.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Ref: Joël Robuchon (ed), Larousse Gastronomique, page 834; Bernard Loiseau, Cuisine en Famille, page 220; Jacques Pepin, La Technique, page 203; Paul Bocuse, La Cuisine du Marché, page 216.

The classic Paris-Brest was first made in 1891 in honor of a bicycle race that traveled between these two cities. I don’t know how close the following recipe is to the original, but after reviewing quite a few, the filling in this one seems to be the most common type used. Also, the finished cake is sometimes sprinkled with powdered sugar just before serving. But why hide its beautiful appearance.

Paris-Brest

1 large

egg yolk, beaten with 1⁄2 t cold water

2 T

sliced almonds

powdered sugar [optional]

pâte à choux:

125 ml (1⁄2+ c)

milk

125 ml (1⁄2+ c)

water

1⁄2 t

fine salt

1 t

sugar

100 g (7 T)

butter, cut into pieces

118 g (131⁄2 T)

all‑purpose flour

3 large

eggs

crème Paris-Brest:

150 g (1⁄3 lb)

butter, at room temperature

80 g (scant 3 oz)

praline en poudre

325 g (11.5 oz)

crème pâtissière

1 t

rum

praline en poudre:

36 g (11⁄4 oz)

finely ground almonds

1⁄2 t

vanilla powder

80 g (61⁄2 T)

sugar

crème pâtissière:

250 ml (1+ c)

milk

1⁄2

vanilla bean, split lengthwise

50 g (1⁄4 c)

sugar

50 g (about 21⁄2)

egg yolks

15 g (11⁄2 T)

all‑purpose flour

15 g (11⁄2 T)

cornstarch

1. For crème pâtissière: Combine the milk, vanilla bean, and half the sugar in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil.

2. In the meantime, whisk the egg yolks and the remaining sugar together until very light. Whisk in the flour and cornstarch.

3. Remove the vanilla bean from the milk and discard. Whisk the milk mixture into the egg‑yolk mixture until smooth. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and whisk vigorously until the mixture thickens. Continue whisking for a minute or so longer to cook the flour and starch.

4. Pour the mixture into a clean bowl and float a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface. Cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate until needed, up to 3 days.

5. For praline en poudre: Heat a nonstick small frying pan over medium heat. Toast the almonds until they start to color slightly. Mix in the vanilla powder and set aside.

6. Place the sugar in a small, heavy‑bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Cook the sugar until it forms a brown caramel. Add the toasted almonds and stir to mix. Pour the mixture onto a silicone pan liner. Lay another liner over the top and thin the praline with a rolling pin. Remove the second liner and set the praline aside to cool.

7. Break the cooled praline into the bowl of a small food processor and pulverize. Sift the praline powder to remove any pieces not fully pulverized. Store the powder in an air‑tight container.

8. Preheat oven to 220°C (430°F). Draw a 20‑cm (8‑in) circle with a pencil on a piece of parchment paper sized to fit a baking sheet. Place the paper, lead side down, on the baking sheet and set aside.

9. For pâte à choux: Place the milk, water, salt, sugar, and butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add all the flour at one time. Return the saucepan to low heat and, using a wooden spoon, beat until the dough pulls away from the edge of the saucepan, is homogenous, and a skin forms on the bottom of the pan. Remove the pan from the heat again and allow the dough to cool for 5 minutes. Mix in the eggs, one at a time.

10. Spoon the pâte à choux into a pastry bag fitted with a 15‑mm (5⁄8‑in) plain tip. Pipe a 20‑cm (8‑in) diameter by 25‑mm (1‑in) wide ring, following the pencil line, so that the center of the piped dough is on the line. Pipe a second ring of dough inside, but touching the first. Finally, pipe a third ring on top of, and centered on, the other two. Gently brush the surface with egg yolk mixture. Then sprinkle the slice almonds over the surface.

11. Bake for 10 minutes, until the dough starts to brown. Lower heat to 180°C (355°F) and continue baking for 30 minutes more. Prop the oven door slightly ajar with a wooden spoon and continue baking for 15 minutes more. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack.

12. For crème Paris‑Brest: Using an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the butter until smooth. Add the praline powder and continue whisking until thoroughly combined. Add the crème pâtissière, a little at a time, and then continue whisking until the mixture begins to lighten. Finally, whisk in the rum. Spoon the crème Paris‑Brest in a pastry bag fitted with a 15‑mm (5⁄8‑in) star tip. Set aside in the refrigerator until needed.

13. Allow the baked dough to cool completely before proceeding. When cool, cut the top off at the junction of the top and bottom rings. A serrated knife works best for this. Set aside.

14. Just before serving, place the lower pastry ring on a serving plate. Pipe the crème Paris‑Brest into the base and a bit over the edges in a decorative manner. Carefully place the top piece of pastry on the filling. Sprinkle the top with powdered sugar [optional]. Cut into wedges for serving.

Yield: 8 servings.

Ref: Gaston Lenôtre in Linda Dannenberg, Paris Boulangerie‑Pâtisserie, page 130 and 146; Jacques Pepin, Complete Techniques, page 704; Jöel Robouchon (ed), Larousse Gastronomique, page 762; Le Cordon Bleu Cooks at Home, page 370.