Yuk, cauliflower! That was certainly my feeling as a child. My mother could take a beautiful, white head of this lovely vegetable and with a modicum of effort, turn it into a fowl-smelling, gray lump of mushy fiber. I’d push the squishy florets around my plate with a fork like a slow-moving earthmover. Since I couldn’t leave the table until either my plate was clean or I outlasted my mother’s patience, I spent many evenings building cauliflower roads. Long before I became a rebellious teenager, my mother gave up, and when she and my father ate cauliflower, I found an alternative vegetable on my plate.

With adulthood, my attitude didn’t improve. I dreaded the all too frequent airplane meal accompanied by a mixture of overcooked cauliflower and broccoli. Sometimes the airlines provided variety by adding a few carrots to the dish, but the cauliflower was still inedible. At banquets and other semi-public dining occasions, I seemed to encounter cauliflower much too often. And at private homes, the hors d’oeuvre always seemed to be raw cauliflower served with some strange, sticky dip. Yuk!

But after five decades of avoiding cauliflower, something happened recently. I don’t remember being struck by lightening or seeing an image of the Madonna on my refrigerator door, but for some reason I decided to purchase and prepare some cauliflower. The preparation process wasn’t unfamiliar. I had prepped many heads of this white stuff in various French-kitchen sojourns (although I avoided eating any). The results of my first tentative steps into twenty-first century cauliflower imbibing led me to venture further into this world. Before I knew it, I was eating cauliflower three or four times a week. The taste was exciting, the texture exquisite, and the aroma enchanting!

Although I have been enjoying cauliflower for only a short time, the French have been partaking in it for more than 400 years.1 Apparently originating in Cyprus,2 cauliflower may have been known to the Romans, though proof of this contention is, to my knowledge, not available. The Romans were familiar with other cabbages (and cauliflower is related to other cabbages). Vehling speculates that the recipe in Apicius for cymas et cauliculos — translated by Vehling as young cabbage, sprouts — includes cauliflower and broccoli.3 Olivier de Serres discusses cauliflower’s early French cultivation in Le Théâtre d’agricvltvre et mesnage de champs published in 1600,4 and in 1651, La Verenne wrote what may have been the first instructions for how to cook cauliflower:5

Separate the cauliflower into branches. Peel the branches. Discard any rotten pieces. Next wash the cauliflower and cook in a pot along with some meat, or in some salted water with some bread crumbs and a little butter. It should remain very white. When cooked, drain well as with asparagus. Serve with a sauce like asparagus, or with the juice from roast meat.

Alternatively, cauliflower in the shape of fritters can be boiled and served along with white cabbage and a cauliflower sauce. The cauliflower is first boiled in meat stock, or in salted water, or in wine with salt, a little vinegar, and fine herbs.

A few years later, Pierre de Lune published two cauliflower recipes in his Le Cuisinier.6 The recipes are choux-fleurs au beurre blanc (cauliflower with white butter sauce) and choux-fleurs au jus de mouton (cauliflower with mutton stock). The first is similar to recipes still found today. (A version is presented in the recipe section accompanying this article.) The second recipe is a bit archaic. In that recipe, cauliflower is first rapidly cooked in water with salt, butter, and a clove. It is then drained and fried gently in pork fat with parsley, chervil, thyme, chives, and salt. When served, some mutton stock and a little vinegar are spooned over the cauliflower and the dish is seasoned with white pepper.

Today, cauliflower is grown year-round in Brittany, with 92% of the total domestic production,7 and seasonally in Manche, Provence, and Nord-Pas-de-Calais.8 France, with its annual production of 4.9M tons, is the world’s fourth largest producer of cauliflower.9 On a trip to Brittany in October, 2003, I observed extensive fields of giant heads of cauliflower plus a couple of farms that specialized in miniature heads of cauliflower for use in specialty restaurants. The cooperative that handled distribution of the small heads claimed to be shipping product daily to as far away as California and Japan.

Cauliflower is a member of the mustard family (genius Brassica) along with cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and turnips.10 The head of cauliflower is actually mostly stem tissue with a sterile mass of undeveloped flower buds attached at its terminus.11 The white color is from a group of “invisible” pigments called anthocyanins. When cooked in alkaline water, the pigment displays itself as a cream or yellowish color.12 The white color is also because the leaves of the plant cover the head, shielding it from the sun and preventing the formation of chlorophyll.13

Along with the other members of the mustard family, cauliflower is known for its pervasive odor when overcooked.14 The odor is due to the presence of isothiocyanates, sometimes called mustard oils. In the living plant, the isothiocyanates are bound to the sugar modules and are inactive. When cooked, the isothiocyanates break down into various compounds including hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, mercaptans, and methyl sulfide. The more the cauliflower is cooked, the stronger the odor becomes.15

When purchased, the cauliflower head should be tight and compact, firm, white, and undamaged. No green shoots should be growing between the florets. The outer leaves should be very crisp. Cauliflower is usually sold by the piece, not by weight. If only the florets are to be used in the preparation, about half of the head will be wasted.16 The core of the cauliflower is quite edible and can be used in recipes where the final product is pureed.

After having researched recipes to expand my cauliflower repertoire, looking through a couple of centuries of possible sources, I found that the variety of recipes available was actually a little slim. The recipes in many books tended to duplicate those found in other books. In the end, I was able to cull a variety of recipes that spanned almost 350 years. I found recipes that are served hot and recipes that are served cold; recipes of just cauliflower and recipes where cauliflower is only one of the principal ingredients; recipes for soups, salads, and side dishes; recipes that use baking, boiling, steaming, frying, or broiling to cook the cauliflower; and recipes where the cauliflower is served slightly crunchy and others where the cauliflower is pureed. To check them out, click on the “recipes” button at the bottom of this page.

Now that I’m eating cauliflower multiple times each week, I’m quite well acquainted with this vegetable I once loathed and avoided. It’s not a love affair, but maybe a close friendship.

 1. T. Sarah Peterson, Acquired Taste: The French Origins of Modern Cooking, Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1994, p. 120.

 2. Harold McGee, On Food and Cooking, New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1984, p. 199.

 3. Joseph Dommers Vehling, Apicius: Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome, Chicago: Walter M. Hill, 1936; reprint, Dover Publications, Inc., New York, 1977, p. 80.

 4. Barbara Ketcham Wheaton, Savoring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789, New York: Scribner, 1983, p. 66.

 5. François Pierre de la Varenne, Le Cuisiner François, 3rd? ed., Lyon: Jacques Canier, 1680, pp. 113-4. In French.

 6. Pierre de Lune, Le Cuisinier, 1656. Reprinted in L’art de la cuisine fançaise au xviie sièle, Paris: Éditions Payot & Rivages, 1995, pp. 276-7. In French.

 7. Bretagne Inovation. Formerly online at Innoba :: Brittany region (France).

 8. Larousse Gastronomique, ed. Patrice Maubourguet, Paris: Larousse-Bordas, 1996, p. 274. In French.

 9. The top five cauliflower producers in the world are India (72M tons), China (71M tons), Italy (6M tons), France (5M tons), and the United States (3M tons). Vegetables and Melons Situation and Outlook Yearbook, Market and Trade Economics Division, Economic Research Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, July 2003, p. 4.

10. McGee, On Food and Cooking, p. 156.

11. Ibid., p. 146.

12. Anne Gardiner and Sue Wilson, The Inquisitive Cook, ed. Pat Murphy, The Accidental Scientist, New York: Henry Holt and Company, Inc., 1998, p. 30.

13. McGee, On Food and Cooking, p. 199.

14. Gardiner and Wilson, The Inquisitive Cook, p. 24.

15. McGee, On Food and Cooking, pp. 156-7.

16. Larousse Gastronomique, ed. Patrice Maubourguet and Jane Birch (English edition), trans. Rosetta International, New York: Clarkson Potter/Publishers, 2001, p. 234.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.

Recettes de chou-fleur

blanc de chou-fleur en crème de moutarde
browned cauliflower with a mustard-cream sauce

chou-fleur à la grecque
chilled, cooked, lemon-flavored cauliflower served with a sauce made of pureed cauliflower

chou-fleur à la parmesane
cauliflower cooked with Parmesan cheese

chou-fleur à la polonaise
cooked cauliflower topped with hard-cooked eggs, parsley, and fried bread crumbs

chou-fleur à la vapeur, sauce roquefort
steamed cauliflower with a Roquefort-cheese sauce

chou-fleur rôti à la vinaigrette
roasted cauliflower served with a vinaigrette sauce

chou-fleur sauté
slowly pan-fried cauliflower

choux-fleurs au beurre blanc
cooked cauliflower with a white-butter sauce

choux-fleurs au gratin
a traditional cauliflower baked with a two-cheese and breadcrumb topping

crème de potiron et de chou-fleur aux noix de St. Jacques
pureed cauliflower and pumpkin soup served with a scallop

gratin chou-fleur au Saint-Marcellin
cauliflower baked with onions and bacon and topped with slices of Saint-Marcellin cheese

« hure » de raie au chou-fleur cru, légumes au sirop de tomate
terrine of skate wing, raw cauliflower, tomato, and capers served with a mixture of vegetables served in a tomato syrup

la crème de chou-fleur caramélisé au foie gras Chez Tante Louise
pureed cauliflower soup served with a foie gras garnish

mousse de chou-fleur
baked, cauliflower custard

œufs mollets, sauce hollandaise aux épices
steamed cauliflower, ham, and green onions served with a curried hollandaise sauce and a soft-cooked egg

purée gratinée de chou-flour et de tomate
pureed cauliflower and tomato served with a cheese topping

purée mousse de chou-fleur
smooth, pureed cauliflower

salade de chou-fleur au curry
cauliflower salad served with a curry-flavored vinaigrette

salade messidor
mixed vegetable salad served with a mayonnaise dressing

soupe froide de chou-fleur aux pommes
cold cauliflower soup garnished with apple

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
blanc de chou-fleur en crème de moutarde
5 large ( about 250 g [12 lb])
cauliflower florets
3 T
unsalted butter
12 T
all‑purpose flour
60 ml (14 c)
whole milk
80 ml (13 c)
heavy cream
fine salt
1 T
Dijon‑style mustard
1 T small
pickled capers, rinsed and drained
12 T
chopped flat‑leaf parsley
1. Blanch the cauliflower in boiling, salted water until barely tender. Cool in an ice‑water bath. Drain thoroughly on absorbent paper. Set aside.
2. While the cauliflower is cooking, melt 1 T butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for a few minutes. Slowly whisk in the milk; follow with the cream. Bring to a boil, season with salt, and remove from heat.
3. Cut the florets in half. Heat the remaining 2 T butter in a nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Carefully brown the florets.
4. While the cauliflower is browning, whisk the mustard into sauce and carefully reheat. Do not boil.
5. Divide the browned cauliflower on serving plates, coat with sauce, and sprinkle with the capers and parsley.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Roger Vergé, Roger Vergé’s Vegetables in the French Style, page 106.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
chou-fleur à la grecque
10
coriander seeds
10
black peppercorns
2 sprigs
fresh thyme
1 clove
garlic, slightly crushed
2 T
olive oil
600 g (113 lb)
small cauliflower florets
3 T
lemon juice
100 ml (scant 12 c)
dry white wine
150 ml (scant 23 c)
white chicken stock
100 ml (scant 12 c)
heavy cream
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Place the coriander seeds, peppercorns, thyme, and garlic clove on a small piece of cheesecloth and tie with a string. Set aside.
2. Heat the 1 T of olive oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook 450 g (1 lb) of cauliflower in the pan without browning for about 5 minutes. Add 112 T lemon juice, wine, and bag of spices. Increase heat and reduce the liquid by half. Add 100 ml (7 T) stock, bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer until tender, about 25 minutes.
3. In the meantime, place the remaining cauliflower, cream, and the remaining stock in a separate saucepan. Cook over medium heat until soft, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Puree the mixture in a blender or by forcing it through a sieve. Set aside.
4. When cooked, drain the first saucepan of cauliflower, reserving the cooking liquid. Discard the spice bag. Combine the cooking liquid with the remaining lemon juice and olive oil. Bring to a boil and cook until a smooth sauce is formed. Season with salt and pepper. Combine with the drained cauliflower.
5. Divide the cauliflower pieces, along with their sauce, between glass serving dishes. Pour the puree over the cauliflower pieces. Chill before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Françoise Bernard and Alain Ducasse, La Bonne Cuisine, 1999, page 187.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
chou-fleur à la parmesane
300 g (34 lb)
cauliflower florets
about 50 g (scant 2 oz)
finely grated Parmesan cheese
1 T
unsalted butter, melted
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
leaves from 3 sprigs
fresh flat‑leaf parsley, minced
1. Steam cook the cauliflower until tender, about 8 minutes.
2. Preheat a broiler.
3. When the cauliflower is just cool enough to handle, hold each floret by its stalk and dredge the head through the cheese. Place each floret, as it’s coated with cheese, in an au gratin dish, one for each serving. Drizzle the coated florets with melted butter and season with salt and pepper.
4. Reheat the cauliflower under the broiler until the tops start to brown, about 3 minutes.
5. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, March 1999, page 6.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
chou-fleur à la vapeur, sauce Roquefort
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower florets
1 small
shallot, peeled and finely diced
2 t
unsalted butter
75 g (212 oz)
Roquefort cheese, crumbled
50 ml (313 T)
heavy cream
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
leaves from 3 sprigs
fresh flat‑leaf parsley, minced
1. Steam cook the cauliflower until tender, about 8 minutes.
2. Sweat the shallots in butter over medium‑low heat in a small saucepan. When the shallots are soft, add the cheese and stir to melt. Add the cream, salt, and pepper. Remove the saucepan from the heat just as the sauce starts to boil.
3. Divide the cooked cauliflower between serving dishes. Add the parsley to the sauce. Spoon the sauce over the cauliflower.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, April 1997, page 36.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
chou-fleur à la vapeur, sauce Roquefort
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower florets
1 small
shallot, peeled and finely diced
2 t
unsalted butter
75 g (212 oz)
Roquefort cheese, crumbled
50 ml (313 T)
heavy cream
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
leaves from 3 sprigs
fresh flat‑leaf parsley, minced
1. Steam cook the cauliflower until tender, about 8 minutes.
2. Sweat the shallots in butter over medium‑low heat in a small saucepan. When the shallots are soft, add the cheese and stir to melt. Add the cream, salt, and pepper. Remove the saucepan from the heat just as the sauce starts to boil.
3. Divide the cooked cauliflower between serving dishes. Add the parsley to the sauce. Spoon the sauce over the cauliflower.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, April 1997, page 36.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
chou-fleur rôti à la vinaigrette
2 T
olive oil
3 T
unsalted butter
2 T
lemon juice
1 t
fine salt
12 t
freshly ground black pepper
freshly ground nutmeg
1, about 450 g (1 lb)
cauliflower
vinaigrette:
12 clove
garlic, finely diced
12 small
shallot, finely diced
12 T
Dijon‑style mustard
112 T
red wine vinegar
212 T
grapeseed oil
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 T
fresh chervil or tarragon, finely minced
1. Preheat oven to 190°C (375°F).
2. Combine the oil, butter, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in a small saucepan. Place over low heat until the butter is melted.
3. Place the cauliflower in a roasting pan and spoon the sauce over it. Cover the pan with a piece of foil. Bake the cauliflower for 30 minutes, basting it a couple of times during the cooking.
4. Prepare the vinaigrette and set aside.
5. Remove the foil and continue cooking for another 10 minutes or so until the cauliflower is tender.
6. Serve the cauliflower hot or at room temperature with the vinaigrette spooned over the top.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Michael Roberts, Parisian Home Cooking, page 92.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
chou-fleur sauté
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower florets
3 T
unsalted butter
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Cook the cauliflower in salted, boiling water until not quite tender, about 3 minutes. Drain well.
2. Melt the butter in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the cauliflower. Season with salt and pepper. Lower heat and cook gently until the cauliflower starts to brown, about 20 to 25 minutes.
3. Drain and serve.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Henri Babinski, Gastronomie pratique, 1928 (5th ed), page 920.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
choux-fleurs au beurre blanc
2 T
unsalted butter
1
clove
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower, cut into individual florets
12 T
white wine vinegar
12 T
heavy cream
4 T
chilled unsalted butter, diced
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
freshly ground nutmeg
1 t
finely grated lemon zest
1. Place the butter and clove in a saucepan of salted water and bring to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain.
2. In the meantime, heat the vinegar and cream in a small saucepan over very low heat. Whisk in the butter, a little at a time. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and lemon zest.
3. Divide the cauliflower between individual serving dishes and spoon the sauce over the top.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Pierre de Lune, Le cuisinier, 1656, in L’art de la cuisine française au XVIIe siècle, 1995, page 263.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
choux-fleurs au gratin
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower, cut into individual florets
1 T
unsalted butter
1 T
all‑purpose flour
150 ml (23 c)
water
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
freshly ground nutmeg, to taste
30 g (1 oz)
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
15 g (12 oz)
freshly grated Gruyère cheese
1 T
dry bread crumbs
1 T
melted unsalted butter
1. Preheat oven to 210°C (410°F).
2. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain.
3. In the meantime, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and cook for a few minutes. Whisk in the water. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Allow the sauce to cook for a few minutes further. Stir occasionally.
4. Whisk half the Parmesan cheese and all the Gruyère into the sauce, and cook a bit more.
5. Divide the cauliflower between individual au gratin dishes and spoon the sauce over the top. Then sprinkle the remaining Parmesan cheese, along with the bread crumbs, over the top. Finally, sprinkle 12 T of melted butter over each portion.
6. Place the dishes on a baking sheet and bake until the tops are golden, about 10 minutes.
7. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Jules Gouffé, Le Livre de cuisine, 1867, page 257.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
crème de potiron et de chou-fleur aux noix de Saint Jacques
25 g (2 T)
unsalted butter
1 small
red onion, peeled, finely sliced
175 g (614 oz)
fresh pumpkin flesh, 135 g (434 oz) cut into chunks, 40 g (112 oz) cut into 5‑mm (14‑in) dice
175 g (614 oz)
cauliflower florets, 40 g (112 oz) very small florets separated out
400 ml (123 c)
chicken stock
coarse salt
25 ml (scant 2 T)
heavy cream
freshly grated nutmeg
2
sea scallops, cut into thin slices
1. Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium‑low heat. Add the onions and sweat until soft.
2. Add the pumpkin chunks to the saucepan and continue cooking for 2 minutes. Add the 135 g (434 oz) of larger cauliflower florets and continue cooking for 3 minutes more. Add the stock, bring to a simmer, cover, season with salt, and cook for 20 minutes.
3. In the meantime, blanch the finely diced pumpkin in salted, boiling water until cooked, but still slightly crunchy, about 2 minutes. Cool in an ice bath and drain on absorbent paper.
4. Also in the meantime, blanch the small cauliflower florets in salted, boiling water until cooked, but still slightly crunchy, about 3 minutes. Cool in an ice bath and drain on absorbent paper.
5. When the soup is cooked, place it in a blender along with 1 T of cream and a pinch of nutmeg. Puree until smooth. Strain into a clean saucepan.
6. When ready to serve, reheat soup. Divide the scallop slices between individual soup bowls. Divide the soup between the bowls. Scatter the pumpkin and cauliflower pieces over the soup. Finally, splash a teaspoon of cream on the surface of each serving. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Patrick Jeffroy, as presented on Bon Appétit Bien Sur, France TV3, 2002?

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
gratin chou-fleur au Saint-Marcellin
100 g (14 lb)
yellow onion, shredded
75 g (212 oz)
smoked bacon, cut into 3‑mm (18‑in) strips
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
275 g (10 oz)
cauliflower, cut into 2 to 3‑cm (34 to 114‑in) florets
1 T
soft unsalted butter
1, about 100 g (312 oz)
Saint‑Marcellin cheese, cut into thin slices
pin
fresh thyme leaves, minced
1. Preheat oven to 210°C (410°F).
2. Sweat the onions, along with the bacon, in a small frying pan over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil and cook the cauliflower until barely tender, about 3 minutes. Drain well and gently combine with the butter.
4. Combine the cauliflower pieces and onions‑bacon mixture. Arrange in individual gratin dishes. Lay the cheese slices on top of the mixture. Sprinkle the thyme leaves over the cheese. Bake the mixture until the cheese is melted and the edges are brown, about 20 minutes.
5. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Christophe Felder, Les Gratins de Christophe, 2001, page 127.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
« hure » de raie au chou-fleur cru, légumes au sirop de tomate
terrine:
275 g (9 oz)
skinless, boneless skate wing
court bouillon
200 g (12 lb)
cauliflower
zest from 12 (about 4 g)
lemon, very finely minced
50 g (134 oz)
peeled, seeded, cored, and finely diced tomato
15 g (12 oz)
very finely diced shallot
2 T (about 15 g)
capers, rinsed and drained
leaves from 5 sprigs
fresh flat‑leaf parsley, minced
dash
cayenne
fine salt
1 leaf (about 2 g)
gelatin
légumes:
2 small
zucchinis, trimmed, cut in half, lengthwise
2 small
yellow, summer squashes, trimmed, cut into quarters
80 g (scant 3 oz) small
common mushrooms, trimmed
green portion from 2
green onions, 3‑cm (114‑in) long pieces
2 small
artichoke hearts, quartered, soaked in acidified water
200 g (12 lb)
ripe tomatoes, trimmed and processed
65 ml (14 c)
dry white wine
1 t (about 4 g)
finely granulated sugar
1 t (about 4 g)
fine salt
a few sprigs
fresh dill, coarsely chopped
pin
piment d’Espelette
1 T (about 6 g)
cornstarch
1 T
lemon juice
1. For terrine: Gently poach the skate wing in some court bouillon until cooked, about 10 to 1  minutes. Drain and set aside to cool. Reserve 100 ml (7 T) of the poaching liquid.
2. Cut the cauliflower into individual florets. Cut the very small florets from the tips of the larger florets. Discard the stems. There should be about 125 g (412 oz) of the small florets. Wash and drain the florets.
3. Shred the cooked skate and place in a mixing bowl. Add the cauliflower, lemon zest, tomato, shallot, capers, and parsley. Gently mix. Season the mixture with the cayenne and salt.
4. Soften the gelatin in some cold water. Dissolve the gelatin in a couple of tablespoons of warm court bouillon and add to the skate mixture.
5. Line a 350‑g (12‑oz) terrine with plastic wrap. Pack the skate mixture into the terrine and refrigerate overnight.
6. For légumes: Separately blanch the zucchini pieces, squash pieces, mushrooms, green onion, and artichoke hearts in salted water until tender. Refresh in an ice bath and drain very thoroughly.
7. Place the tomato pulp in a small saucepan along with the wine, sugar, salt, dill, and piment d’Espelette. Dissolve the cornstarch in a spoonful of cold water and mix into the tomato mixture. Bring the mixture to a very low boil. Cook for about 15 to 20 minutes. Mix in the lemon juice, strain, and refrigerate the mixture.
8. To serve, remove the terrine from the mold and cut into individual portions with a serrated knife. Gently mix the vegetables with the chilled tomato sauce and divide between individual serving plate. Place a slice of terrine on each of the vegetable piles. Decorate with a sprig of dill.
Note: Prepare the terrine at least one day in advance.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Alain Dutournier, Ma cuisine, 2000, page 268.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
la crème de chou-fleur caramélisé au foie gras Chez Tante Louise
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower florets
20 g (1+ T)
unsalted butter
250 ml (1 c)
chicken stock
coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
40 g (113 oz)
duck foie gras, cut into 5‑mm (14‑in) cubes
1. Cook the cauliflower in salted, boiling water until very tender, about 8 minutes. Drain. Puree in a small food processor. Set aside.
2. Melt the butter in a saucepan over high heat. When the butter browns, mix in the cauliflower puree. Add the stock, season with salt and pepper, and simmer for 5 minutes.
3. Foam the soup with a stick blender. Divide the soup between individual serving bowls. Carefully sprinkle the foie gras cubes over the soup so the cubes float on the surface. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Patricia Wells, The Paris Cookbook, 2001, page 150.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
mousse de chou-fleur
1 T
soft unsalted butter
400 g (1 lb)
cauliflower, separated into florets
2 large
eggs
2 large
egg yolks
150 ml (58 c)
heavy cream
1 t
all‑purpose flour
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated nutmeg
75 g (212 oz)
smoked bacon, cut into 3‑mm (18‑in) square strips
1. Preheat oven to 210°C (410°F). Prepare 4 small, 120‑ml (4‑oz), ramekins by brushing their interiors with the soft butter.
2. Blanch the cauliflower in salted water for 8 minutes. Drain well.
3. Place the eggs, egg yolks, cream together, cauliflower, flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in the jar of a blender. Process at high speed. Divide the mixture between the ramekins.
4. Bake the ramekins until a knife inserted in the center comes out dry, about 30 minutes.
5. Let the ramekins rest for a couple of minutes before removing from the ramekins.
6. Before serving, cook the bacon in a frying pan until hot, but not crisp. Drain briefly.
7. Unmold the custards on serving plates. Divide the bacon over the custards.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Guide Cuisine, March 1998, page 28.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
œufs mollets, sauce hollandaise aux épices
fine salt
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower florets
250 g (12 lb)
leek, trimmed, cut into 2‑cm (34‑in) sections
1 extra‑large
egg
1
green onion, green portion only, 1‑cm (38‑in) pieces
50 g (134 oz)
smoked ham, 5‑mm (14‑in) dice
tip leaves from 4 sprigs
fresh, flat‑leaf parsley
sauce:
2 large
egg yolks
1 T
water
115 g (8 T)
unsalted butter, melted and barely warm
1 T
lemon juice
1 t
curry powder
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
1. Lightly salt the cauliflower and leek. Steam cook separately until tender, about 10 minutes each. When each is cooked, divide the vegetables between serving plates, set aside, and keep warm.
2. In the meantime, place the egg in a saucepan of cold water and bring to a boil. Continue to boil for 4 minutes. Drain. Peel the egg. Cut in half lengthwise. Set aside and keep warm.
3. To prepare the sauce, whisk the egg yolks and water together in a small saucepan over low heat until an emulsion is formed and it thickens enough to show the bottom of the pan while whisking. Whisk in the melted butter. Whisk in the lemon juice, curry powder, salt, and pepper.
4. Spoon the sauce over the vegetables. Sprinkle each plate with green onion pieces and ham. Set an egg half in the center. Decorate with a couple of parsley leaves.
Note: Poached eggs can be substituted for the soft‑boiled egg halves.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, March 1999, page 5.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
purée gratinée de chou-fleur et de tomate
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower, divided into florets
60 g (2 oz)
fresh tomato puree
25 g (scant 2 T)
unsalted butter
30 g (1 oz)
grated Gruyère cheese
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper
1. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until very tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and puree through a food mill.
2. Cook the tomato puree in 1 T butter over low heat until it becomes a bit dry, about 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Place the cauliflower puree in a saucepan along with the remainder of the butter, 25 g (56 oz) of grated cheese, salt, and pepper. Heat gently, Mix in the tomato puree.
4. Divide the puree between serving plates. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the individual servings.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Henri Babinski, Gastronomie pratique, 1928 (5th ed), page 921.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
purée mousse de chou-fleur
275 g (10 oz)
cauliflower, divided into florets
1 l (1 qt)
whole milk
coarse salt
freshly ground white pepper
freshly ground nutmeg
1. Place the cauliflower in a saucepan with the milk. Bring to a simmer. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Cook the cauliflower until quite tender, 10 to 20 minutes.
2. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, transfer the cauliflower to a bowl. Using a stick blender fitted with a chopping blade, puree the cauliflower. Add a little of the cooking liquid, if needed. Optionally, if a finer puree is desired, force the original puree through a sieve.
3. If not serving immediately, keep the puree warm over hot water.
4. Before serving, taste for salt.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Michel Guérard, Michel Guérard’s Cuisine Minceur, page 257.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
salade de chou-fleur au curry
400 g (1 lb)
cauliflower florets
1 t
red wine vinegar
14 t
curry powder
18 t
ground cumin
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 T
olive oil
1 small
shallot, cut into fine rounds
1. Blanch the cauliflower in salted water for 3 minutes. Drain and cool in an ice bath. Drain well. Lay the florets on a towel for a couple of hours to thoroughly drain any residual water.
2. Prepare a vinaigrette from the remaining ingredients.
3. An hour before serving, combine the florets with the vinaigrette.
Note: In the original recipe, the cauliflower salad was served over a green salad sauced with a simple vinaigrette.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Susan Herrmann Loomis, French Farmhouse Cookbook, page 73.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
salade messidor
4 large
artichoke hearts
50 g (123 oz)
French beans, trimmed,
1 stalk
celery, peeled, cut into 3‑cm (18‑in) by 3‑mm (18‑in) sticks
100 g (312 oz)
cauliflower florets
1 small
tomato, peeled, seeded, cored, shredded
12 small head
frisée
minced, fresh chives
mayonnaise:
1 large
egg yolk
12 T
Dijon‑style mustard
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
200 ml (13 T)
sunflower or grapeseed oil
12 T
white wine vinegar
1. Cook the artichoke hearts in salted, acidified water until tender, about 25 minutes. Drain well and refrigerate until needed.
2. Blanch the beans in salted water until barely tender. Chill in an ice bath, drain, and set aside until needed.
3. Blanch the cauliflower in salted water until not quite tender. Chill in an ice bath, drain, and set aside until needed.
4. Prepare a mayonnaise from the mayonnaise ingredients.
5. To assemble the salad, place some frisée leaves on each serving plate. Place an artichoke heart in the center. Gently mix the beans, celery, cauliflower, and tomato with some of the mayonnaise. Mound this mixture on top of the artichoke bottoms. Sprinkle the salads with some chives.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Stephanie Lyness and Dolores Simon (eds), Le Cordon Bleu at Home, page 30.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
soupe froide de chou-fleur aux pommes
250 g (12 lb)
cauliflower florets
2 T
unsalted butter
112 T
all‑purpose flour
150 ml (23 c)
whole milk
200 ml (scant 1 c)
chicken stock
50 ml (scant 14 c)
heavy cream
gray salt and freshly ground white pepper
40 g (113 oz)
finely diced apple
2 small sprigs
flat‑leaf parsley
1. Cook the cauliflower in boiling, salted water for 8 minutes. Drain.
2. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and cook for a few minutes without browning. Whisk in the milk. Continue whisking until the mixture is very smooth.
3. Whisk in the stock and cream. Add the cooked cauliflower and puree the soup with a stick blender. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat for about 5 minutes.
4. Strain the soup into another container and set aside to cool at room temperature.
5. To serve, divide the soup between individual serving bowl. Sprinkle each with the apples and decorate with a parsley sprig.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: recettes.cuisineaz.com, October, 2003.

©2004, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.