After mother’s milk or a manufactured equivalent, the first food that humans usually eat is pureed. Food that has been mechanically ground or pounded is convenient to learn on and it doesn’t require teeth, something we definitely lack at a young age. In former times, when oral hygiene was not part of one’s daily rituals, it was not uncommon for people to lose the majority of their teeth in early adulthood. For these people, food at the end of their lives was not much different than that at the beginning—pureed.

A few hundred years ago, all types of dishes were served as purees. Today, other than purée de pommes de terre—mashed potatoes—purees are rarely seen on the average dinner table. The exception in France is high-end restaurants where purees are more likely to included on the menu, but often as decoration rather than as a principal side dish.

In medieval times, purees were prepared from meats as well as vegetables. Today, most purees are prepared from just vegetables; which makes sense since today we eat purees for the flavor and mouth feel, not because we lack the dentures required to chew morsels of food.

In olden days, cooks were limited to using either a tamis (sieve) or a mortier et pilon (mortar and pestle) to puree foods. In the 19th century, the moulin de légumes (food mill) was added to the batterie de cuisine (kitchen utensils) available for the cook to use when preparing purees. The modern cook in an electrified kitchen now has the mixer or blender (stand blender); mixeur, batteur, or mini-mixer (stick or immersion blender); and robot de cuisine or just robot [see note below] (food processor) to simplify the process of preparing purees.

One advantage to purees is that the raw materials used in the preparation may not need to be in as good of a condition or as well formed as those where the same material is served whole or in large pieces. When preparing a puree, it is easy to cut out and discard any spoiled or damaged portions of the raw ingredient.

The consistency of a puree may vary from thin to thick. Generally, purees intended as a side dish or garnish are kept thick. Those meant to be eaten as a soup are thinner. (Soups with the word puree in their title, such as purée de céleri, tend to be a product of the late 19th-, early 20th-century. However, many soups are made today using the same processes as those used for making purees intended as side dishes, but they are not called purees on the menu.)

Raw materials used in purees which are too watery to produce a thick puree often have a complementary thickening ingredient added to increase their consistency. Typically, starchy vegetables, such as potatoes, cereals, such as rice, or thick sauces, such as béchamel, are added to thicken the puree.

If purees are dishes you avoid because there’s nothing to sink you teeth into, I strongly suggest giving one or two a try. Purees easily make up in taste what they lack in texture.

Note: I have not found a standardized word for food processor in France. I often see it referred to as a robot coupe, which is a brand of food processor. I have also been with chefs that refer to it as a mixer. The term used above is from the Harper-Collins French-English dictionary. Conversely, I have often seen the term mixer wrongly translated as a stand mixer by translators interpreting French recipes in English.

caviar d’aubergines
300 g (34 lb)
small eggplants, washed
3 large cloves
garlic
6
oil‑cured black olives, seeded
2
anchovy fillets
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Cayenne pepper, to taste
1 large
egg yolk
12 T
Dijon‑style mustard
110 ml (12 c)
olive oil
1. Steam the eggplants and garlic until each is soft, about 20 to 40 minutes depending on size. When cooked and cool enough to handle, peel the eggplant and garlic. Cut the eggplant flesh into cubes.
2. Place the eggplant, garlic, olives, anchovy fillets, salt, and both peppers in a food processor. Puree. Add the egg yolk and mustard and pulse to mix. While the processor is running, incorporate the oil a little at a time.
3. Chill the mixture until serving.
Note: serve with lightly toasted bread.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Pierre Perret, Le petit Perret gourmand, 1987, page 310.
courgettes écrasées la fourchette
1 T
olive oil
1 large clove
garlic, slightly crushed but not peeled
1 sprig
fresh thyme
400 g (1 lb)
zucchini, ends trimmed, 5‑mm dice
fine salt
high‑quality olive oil, to taste
chicken stock, to taste
1 small leaf
fresh basil, very finely sliced [optional]
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and thyme. When the oil starts to smoke, add the zucchini. Season with salt and cover the saucepan. Stir frequently to keep the contents from sticking.
2. When the zucchini is cooked and soft, remove from the heat. Remove and discard the thyme sprig. Remove the garlic clove. Squeeze the cooked garlic flesh from the skin back into the saucepan. Discard the skin. “Puree” the zucchini and garlic with a fork.
3. Mix in a little oil and stock to smooth the texture of the puree. Add the optional basil, taste for salt, and season with a little black pepper.
4. Using a fork, mold the puree into a flat disk in the center of individual, heated serving plates.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Alain Ducasse, Grand livre de cuisine d’Alain Ducasse, 2003, page 308.
mousse d’épinards aux poires
300 g (34 lb)
fresh spinach, well cleaned, stems removed
12 small
ripe pear, cored and peeled
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Blanch the spinach in boiling, salted water for 1 to 3 minutes, depending on the coarseness of the spinach leaves. Drain the spinach and rinse with cold water. Squeeze as much water as possible from the spinach.
2. Poach the pear in boiling water until tender but not falling apart, about 15 minutes.
3. Puree the spinach and pear together in a food processor.
4. Heat the puree in a small saucepan. Simmer gently to evaporate the excess water. Season with salt and pepper.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Michel Guérand, Michel Guérand’s Cuisine Minceur, 1976, page 255.
purée d’avocat
1 medium
avocado, peeled, seed removed
juice from 12
lime
1 small clove
garlic, peeled, germ removed, finely diced
50 g (123 oz)
tomato, peeled, seeded, cored, 5‑mm (14‑in) dice
50 g (123 oz)
sweet red pepper, seeded, 5‑mm (14‑in) dice
50 g (123 oz)
yellow onion, peeled, 3‑mm (18‑in) dice
Tabasco sauce, to taste
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Puree the avocado by pressing the flesh through a fine sieve. Mix in the lime juice to prevent the avocado from oxidizing. Mix in the garlic, tomato, red pepper, and onion. Season with Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Guy Martin, Toute la cuisine, 2003, page 527.
purée de brocoli
500 g (1+ lb)
broccoli, cut into separate florets and bite‑sized pieces of stalk
30 ml (2 T)
heavy cream
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook the broccoli stalks for about 5 minutes. Add the florets and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Drain well.
2. Puree the cooked broccoli and cream in a food processor until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Strain through a sieve.
3. Keep warm in a bain‑marie for at least 10 minutes before serving.
Yield: 2 to 3 servings.
Ref: Susan Herrmann Loomis, French Farmhouse Cookbook, 1996, page 238.
purée de carottes
500 g (1+ lb)
carrots, cut into thin rounds
12 medium, about 100 g (14 lb)
onion, thinly sliced
1 T
butter
45 ml (3 T)
chicken stock
12 t
fine salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 very small
fresh bay leaf
1 sprig
fresh thyme
1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F).
2. Place all the ingredients into a small, heavyweight saucepan. Cover pan and bake the combination until the carrots are falling apart, about 75 minutes. Stir occasionally.
3. Remove the saucepan from the oven. Discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig. Puree the contents of the saucepan in a food processor. Pass through a strainer and taste for salt before serving.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Michael Roberts, Parisian Home Cooking, 1999, page 276.
purée de céleri-rave
300 g (34 lb)
celery root, peeled, diced
60 ml (14 c)
heavy cream
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
12 t
very finely minced black truffle [optional]
1. Cook the celery root in simmering, salted water until tender. Drain well.
2. Place the cooked celery root and cream in a food processor and puree until smooth. Optional: pass the puree through a strainer.
3. Season with salt and pepper. Mix in the truffle [optional].
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: François Keiner, Auberge du SchÅ“nenbourg, Riquewihr, France, 2001.
purée de champignons
450 g (1 lb)
common mushrooms, peeled or washed
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
freshly ground nutmeg, to taste
sauce béchamel:
12 T
butter
12 T
all‑purpose flour
2 T
heavy cream
2 T
whole milk
1. Prepare the sauce béchamel: melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes without allowing it to color. Whisk in the cream and milk. Continue whisking until the sauce thickens. Set aside until needed.
2. Finely chop the mushrooms with a food processor. Immediately place the chopped mushrooms in a frying pan set over high heat. Stir until the water expelled by the mushrooms has evaporated completely.
3. Mix in the sauce béchamel. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Paul Bocuse, La cuisine de marché, 1998, page 335.
purée de concombres
500 g (1+ lb)
cucumbers, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, sliced crosswise into 2‑cm (34‑in) chunks
1 T
butter
1 small slice
boiled ham
fine salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
sauce béchamel:
12 T
butter
12 T
all‑purpose flour
60 ml (14 c)
whole milk
1. Prepare the sauce béchamel: melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes without allowing it to color. Whisk in the milk. Continue whisking until the sauce thickens. Set aside until needed.
2. Blanch the cucumber pieces in boiling, salted water for about 3 minutes. Drain well.
3. Place the cucumber pieces in a saucepan along with the butter and ham. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat to dry out any moisture. Add the sauce béchamel and stir to mix. Puree the mixture with a stick blender. Pass the mixture through a strainer.
4. Just before serving, reheat the puree over low heat.
Note: the original recipe was intended as a garnish for other dishes rather than as a stand‑alone side dish.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Urbain Dubois and Émile Bernard, La cuisine classique, 1864, page 151.
purée de marrons
250 g (12 lb)
whole chestnuts, to yield 125 g (14 lb) ground chestnut meat
150 ml (23 c)
heavy cream
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut an X on the flat side of each chestnut and spread in a single layer in a shallow pan. Roast until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven and, using a small knife, remove both the shell and the skin from each chestnut. When cool, grind into a powder.
2. Combine about 125 milliliters of cream with the chestnut powder in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir continuously until heated through. Just before serving, add the remaining cream and mix.
Yield: 3 to 4 servings.
Ref: based on a dish tasted at Le Château d’Amondans, Amondans, France, October, 2001.
purée de navets à la crème
300 g (34 lb)
turnips, peeled, 1‑cm (38‑in) slices
2 T
butter
45 ml (3 T)
chicken stock
pinch
bread crumbs
pinch
sugar
pinch
freshly ground nutmeg
pinch
freshly ground black pepper
1 T
glace de volaille
1 T
heavy cream
fine salt, to taste
1. Blanch the turnip slices in boiling, salted water for a minute. Drain.
2. Place the turnip slices in a saucepan along with half the butter. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently for a few minutes. Do not let the turnips brown.
3. Add the stock, bread crumbs, sugar, nutmeg, and pepper. Cook, covered, over low heat until the turnips are soft, about 25 minutes.
4. Puree the turnips in a food processor. Place the puree in a bowl along with the glace, cream, the remaining butter, and some salt. Stir to combine all the ingredients. Optional: pass the puree through a strainer.
5. Reheat the puree just before serving.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Marie Antonin Carême, L’art de la cuisine française au dix‑neuvième siècle, 1854, volume 3, page 227.
purée de piments doux
2 T
butter
200 g (12 lb)
seeded and diced sweet red peppers
15 g (12 oz)
medium or short grain rice
75 ml (3 T)
chicken stock
1 t
crème fraîche
fine salt to taste
1. Melt half the butter in a saucepan over medium‑low heat. Add the peppers, cover, and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 45 minutes.
2. In the meantime, place the rice and the stock in a separate saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook over low heat, covered, until the rice is very soft, about 45 minutes.
3. When both the rice and peppers are cooked, add them together and puree with a stick blender. Rub the mixture through a fine sieve to remove the pepper skin.
4. Return the puree to a clean saucepan and reheat, without boiling. Add the crème fraîche and the remainder of the butter. Season to taste with salt.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Paul Bocuse, La Cuisine de marché, 1998, page 361.
purée de poireaux
300 g (34 lb)
leeks, trimmed, white portion only, cut into 10‑cm (4‑in) long pieces
40 g (223 T)
butter
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Cook the leeks in simmering, salted (15 g⁄l [12 oz⁄qt]) water until tender. Drain well and press the leeks to remove excess water. Puree in a food processor.
2. Transfer the puree to a saucepan and, if too wet, dry over very low heat. Optional: pass the puree through a strainer.
3. Add the butter to the puree and season with salt and pepper.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Henri Babinski, Gastronomie pratique, 1928 (5th ed.), page 609.
purée de pommes
500 g (1+ lb) small
apples, peeled, cut into 4 wedges each, cored
pinch
salt
1
sugar cube
2 T
butter
1. Place the apples, salt, and sugar in a saucepan. Add enough water to almost cover the apples. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer just until the apples are cooked, about 15 minutes.
2. Drain the apples and place in a clean saucepan. Puree the apples with a stick blender. Add the butter and heat the mixture over low heat to evaporate any excess liquid.
Yield: 4 servings.
Ref: Raymond Oliver, La cuisine, 1972, page 575.
purée mousse de betteraves au vinaigre
12 T
olive oil
1 small
yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 small clove
garlic, thinly sliced
112 T
red‑wine vinegar
2 T
crushed, peeled tomato
175 g (13+ lb)
peeled and thinly sliced red beets
coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 T
chicken stock
1 T
heavy cream
1. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic. Sweat until soft but not colored, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the vinegar, tomato, beets, salt and pepper. Mix well, lower heat, and cook until the beets are tender, about 1 hour. If mixture becomes too dry, moisten with a small amount of the chicken stock.
3. When the beets are tender, transfer the mixture to a food processor. Add the stock and cream. Puree until very smooth, about 2 minutes. Strain the puree through a fine sieve.
4. If necessary, reheat gently over low heat or in a bain‑marie.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Michel Guérard, Michel Guérard’s Cuisine Gournande, 1979, page 266.
purée mousse de haricots verts
350 g (34+ lb)
tender green beans, cleaned
1 T
crème fraîche
1 T
butter
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Cook the beans in heavily salted, boiling water until quite tender, about 10 minutes. Drain. Cool rapidly in an ice bath. Drain very thoroughly on a towel.
2. Puree the beans in a food processor until quite smooth. Add the crème fraîche and continue to process until the cream is fully incorporated.
3. Just before serving, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook the butter until it starts to brown. Add the puree and stir with a wooden spoon until the puree is heated through. Season with salt and pepper.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Michel Guérard, Michel Guérard’s Cuisine Gournande, 1979, page 269.
purée Soubise
500 g (1+ lb)
yellow onions, peeled, finely shredded
50 g (3 T)
butter
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
freshly ground nutmeg, to taste
paprika, to taste
crème fraîche, to taste
sauce béchamel:
12 T
butter
12 T
all‑purpose flour
60 ml (14 c)
whole milk
1. Prepare the sauce béchamel: melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes without allowing it to color. Whisk in the milk. Continue whisking until the sauce thickens. Set aside until needed.
2. Blanch the onions in boiling, salted water for 15 minutes. Rinse well and drain thoroughly. Place in a saucepan along with half the butter. Cook over low heat until the onions are very soft and a bit dry. Do not let the onions color.
3. Mix in the sauce béchamel. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and paprika. Continue cooking over low heat for an additional 10 minutes.
4. Just before serving, puree the mixture with a stick blender. Stir in the remaining butter and a spoonful of crème fraîche.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Mapie de Toulouse‑Lautrec, La Cuisine de Mapie, 2004, page 661.
purée tomates épicées
olive oil
12 medium
yellow onion, peeled, finely minced
1 small
shallot, peeled, finely minced
1 small clove
garlic, peeled, germ removed, pureed
700 g (112 lb)
tomatoes, peeled, seeded, cored, diced
coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 T
tomato paste
pinch
piment d’Espelette
pinch
ground dry thyme
1. Heat a tablespoon or so of oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Sweat the onion and shallot until they start to soften. Add the garlic, tomatoes, salt, and black pepper. When the mixture comes to a boil, lower heat and cook until the tomatoes have broken down and become a bit dry. Stir frequently.
2. Off the heat, add the tomato paste, piment d’Espelette, and thyme. Taste for salt and add additional if necessary.
3. When serving, sprinkle a little olive oil over the puree.
Note: The puree can be served hot, warm, or cold.
Yield: 2 servings.
Ref: Nathalie Combier, Mes purées salées et sucrées, 2004, page 71.