“A chicken in every peasant’s pot every Sunday,” or something to that effect, is attributed to Henri IV. He supposedly made the statement during his coronation address around the end of the 16th century. Four hundred years later, the French come close to his proposal. Today, each person in France consumes about 9 chickens (along with 1 turkey, 1 duck, 1 guinea fowl, and 2 kg of other poultry such as goose, quail, and pigeon). This could mean that each family of four, assuming that they share a single chicken at a meal, eats a chicken about two out of every three weeks. But the reality today is that the French, like other nationalities, also eat some of their chicken in the form of Chicken McNuggets, Burger King Chicken Sandwiches, and other forms of ground and reshaped chicken meat.

Chickens have been around for a long time. Scientists today generally believe that our domestic chickens descended primarily from the Red Jungle Fowl (Gallus bankiva) of Southeast Asia. There is evidence of domesticated chickens in India as early as 3,200 BC, and in China and Egypt about 1,400 BC. Whether these birds were bred for food or cockfighting is unclear. By the time Henri IV made his pronouncement, chickens were certainly used for both purposes in France. Today, there are approximately 60 breeds of chickens world-wide; only a handful are produced in France.

In 1999, the French produced over one-million metric tons of chickens. France is the largest poultry producer in the European Union and fourth largest in the world after the United States, China, and Brazil. Slightly more than 40 percent of the French production is exported, mainly to the Middle East. Three large producers — Doux, LDC, and BSA-Bourgoin — account for about two-thirds of the country’s total production. Although factory-produced chickens dominate the market, about 15 percent of the production is now free-range chickens. This percentage is growing as customers become increasingly wary of factory production in the wake of “mad cow” disease and the Belgium dioxin scandal.

About 30 years ago, the French government developed a free-range production program. Chickens produced within this program meet a wide range of production criteria such as genetics (or breed), feed, and duration of grow out. The French Ministry of Agriculture grants the Red Label (Label Rouge) to farmers’ groups or cooperatives whose production matches the program’s standards. Red Label poultry production is subject to thorough controls at each stage of the process to ensure minimum quality standards. Chickens produced under the Red Label program come from special breeds, selected for their low growth rate, high meat quality, and good skin. These birds have a longer growing period that is approximately twice as long as factory chickens. They are reared in the open air in small groups and fed a natural cereal-based feed. No animal matter or growth factors can be used in the feed.

For many in France, the ultimate chicken is the poulet de Bresse. This is the only type of chicken with an A.O.C. Following an initial period not exceeding 35 days, the birds are raised on a grassy area which provides their primary food. This is supplemented by local cereals and skimmed milk for a period of 9 weeks in the case of young chickens, 11 weeks for hens, and 23 weeks for capons. Each chicken must have a minimum of 10 square meters of space and a single flock cannot exceed 500 birds. The final phase of the growing process is done in wooden cages in a dim, quiet, and well-ventilated structure. The chickens are caged for at least 8 days and capons and hens for 4 weeks.

Arguably, the most common method of cooking a chicken in a French home is not in the oven, but on top of the stove in a pot; ovens are a relatively new occurrence in the average French home. The ten recipes presented with this article are all prepared in a saucepan using cut-up chickens. (Although I do use an oven for keeping parts of the dish warm.) I have a preference for cutting a whole chicken into 13 pieces with a method I learned in the Jura. The advantage of this method over the usual eight-piece division is that each of four guests can be served three pieces that are closer to the same size as what’s served the other guests. The extra piece can be served to the hungriest guest! In all the recipes, the chicken pieces are browned in fat. Then aromatics are added. This is followed by braising liquids and the chicken cooking is completed. Finally, the cooked chicken pieces, and sometimes the aromatics, are set aside, and the sauce is reduced. The time to cook the chicken varies depending on the breed and the part of the chicken, i.e. leg, breast, thigh, or wing.

References:

• [1] GAIN Report #FR0069, Foreign Agricultural Service/USDA, August 2000.
• [2] Council Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 Application for Registration: Art. 17, Comité Interprofessionnel de la Volaille de Bresse, undated.
• [3] Syndicat National des Labels Avicoles de France (Label Rouge) web site,
  http://www.synalaf.com/.
• [4] “Henry IV, king of France,” citation in The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition, 2001. Columbia University Press.
• [5] What Is a Chicken?, University of Illinois Extension web site,
  http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/eggs/res08-whatis.html.

Depending where you live, the typical dressed chicken available may still have its head, feet, and feathers, but more and more these days the chicken comes “ready to cook” — assuming you remember to remove the little paper bag from the cavity. Whether you buy a factory-raised bird or a pampered free-range fowl, the method of dividing the whole chicken into parts is the same. The method presented here is one I learned in the Jura from Chef Frédéric Médigue of Le Chîteau d’Amondans. The method produces 13 pieces that are closer to being the same size than the standard eight-piece method. When serving four guests with 13 pieces, each guest can be served a selection of both light and dark meat. There’s also one extra piece for the hungriest guest (or for the cook to share with the dog in the kitchen). Before cutting the chicken, rinse and dry it thoroughly. Remove and discard (or save for rendering) any loose fat at the entrance of the cavity.
    In my experience, I have found that it is easier to cut a chicken apart with a large chef’s knife than with a boning knife. The straight tip of the chef’s knife makes it easier to cut into the joints.
    Note: click on any picture to see an enlarged version.

Using the tip of the knife, cut the skin between the leg and the breast. By pulling the leg outward, the skin is stretched and it is possible to cut just through the skin [left]. The breast meat and leg meat are not attached to each other so it is possible to expose the joint between the thigh bone (femur) and the tail bone (synsacrum) without cutting into either [center]. Continue cutting until the whole front side of the leg is exposed [right]. At this point, only skin has been cut.

Still using the tip of the knife, cut through the leg skin and muscle to the bone in the direction of the back [left]. Angle the knife towards the head slightly to go around the “oyster” of meat (m. gluteus) on the back [right]. Use the tip of the knife to scrap the meat away from the bone. Continue cutting along the back towards the tail so that all the leg skin and meat are separated from the carcass, but the leg bone is still attached [not shown].

Use the tip of the knife to sever the ligaments that hold the thigh bone to the tail bone. Usually, once the ligament (the tough band of white tissue that holds the bones in contact to each other) closest to view is cut, the head of the thigh bone will release from the socket and the remaining ligament will be exposed. Cut through any remaining connecting tissue to totally free the leg and thigh from the body. Set aside.
    Repeat the preceding steps to remove the other leg and thigh from the chicken.

The lower wing bones (ulna and radius) can be separated from the upper wing bone (humerus) at this point or later after the wing is cut away from the body. Shown here [left], the tip of the kife is used to find where these bones come together. The lower wing is stretched away from the upper to better expose the joint. As with the thigh previously, the ligaments are found and cut, releasing the tension between the bones [right]. Next, the remainder of the skin and other connecting tissue are cut — completely severing the wing. The freed lower wing is discarded or set aside for soup.
    The remaining lower wing from the other side is removed in a similar manner.

Using a process similar to the preceding, the upper wing bone is rotated away from the body to place the joint in tension [left]. As with the thigh, the ligaments supporting the joint are cut — this frees the wing bone from the short bone (coracoid) that attaches the wing to the thorax [middle]. Lastly, using the tip of the knife and working towards the back of the chicken, the muscles of the wing are cut and scraped away from the body [right].
    As before, the corresponding part from the other side is removed in a similar manner.

The next step is to separate the breast from the back. Starting on either side with the tail end of the chicken facing up — the right side is illustrated here — locate the cartilage where the ribs from the front attach to the ribs from the back [left]. Cut through this soft junction on each of the ribs [right].
    Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the chicken.

Holding the chicken back in one hand, use the flat side of the knife to disjoint the back from the breast. Next, cut away any tissue that continues to connect the two pieces together. The back is discarded or set aside for soup.

Next, the breast is placed skin-side down on the cutting board. With the side of the knife against the ribs, the tail end of the breast is cut off and set aside.

The breast is then turned over so the skin side is up. Using the thumb and forefinger of one hand, press against the skin and muscle to place them in tension. Use the tip of the knife to cut through the skin and to cut the muscle (m. pectoralis major) on one side away from the keel bone (sternum) [left]. Continue cutting until the muscle is fully away from the keel on one side. Holding the knife as illustrated, cut entirely through the breast [middle]. Set the piece without the keel bone aside. Carefully cut the opposite muscle off the keel bone [right] and then cut the keel bone away from the remaining bone structure [not shown]. The keel bone is discarded or set aside for soup.

Cut each of the half breast in half again to produce four pieces of approximately the same size. First cut lengthwise through the skin and muscle down to the bone [shown]. Second, cut through the bone; hold the knife similar to the way it was held earlier when cutting through the breast near the keel bone [not shown].

The leg is stretched away from the thigh to better expose the joint [left]. The right leg is shown here. The skin is cut until the joint is visible. As with the thigh previously, the ligaments are found and cut, releasing the tension between the bones [right]. Next, the remainder of the skin and other connecting tissue are cut — completely severing the leg from the thigh.
    The remaining leg and thigh are separated in a similar manner.

Each thigh is placed skin-side down on the cutting surface and the meat spread out as illustrated. Each thigh is then cut along the bone to produce two pieces of approximately the same size.

Lastly, the foot end of the leg is chopped off each leg using the heel of a chef’s knife. The small piece of bone can be discarded or set aside for soup. If the chicken was purchased with the feet still attached, this bone would still be attached to the feet.

The process has now produced 13 pieces of chicken — ready for cooking. Click on the picture to see each piece identified.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Season chicken pieces with pepper and salt. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan and brown.
3. When browned, add the onion, carrot, and celery. Reduce heat and sauté vegetables until they start to brown. Add the curry powder followed by the white wine. Cook until the wine evaporates.
4. Remove the chicken pieces from the frying pan as they cook, and set aside in the oven. Add the stock and cook over high heat, uncovered, until reduced. Season with salt and pepper.
5. In the meanwhile, using a small sauté pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat, and brown the apple pieces. Save with chicken pieces.
6. Divide chicken among warm serving dishes. Strain sauce and pour over chicken.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Season chicken pieces with pepper and salt. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, melt 40 grams butter over medium-high heat. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan and brown. Reserve in oven.
3. Add the onions to hot fat and brown. When browned, save with chicken pieces. Discard the fat in the frying pan.
4. Place the frying pan over medium-low heat and add the remaining 35 grams of butter. Add the wild mushrooms, cover, and cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are cooked. Reserve in the oven.
5. Add the shallot and the sliced mushrooms to the pan. Cook for a couple of minutes. Add the wine and cook until reduced. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Return the chicken and onions to the pan along with the sprig of thyme. Cover and cook until the chicken is done. Remove the pieces as each is done and reserve in oven. Remove the onions when cooked.
6. Uncover the pan, increase the heat and reduce the liquid. Purée the liquid in a blender and strain back into the pan. Add and cook a bit more. Adjust the seasoning.
7. Temper the egg yolk with a bit of the hot sauce . Combine the mixture with the sauce and whisk until the sauce starts to thicken. Stir in the verjus and cooked wild mushrooms.
8. Divide chicken and onions among warm serving dishes. Top with sauce.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan, cover, and brown — about 5 minutes per side.
3. When browned, remove the chicken from the pan and set aside in the warm oven. Drain the pan of excess fat. Deglaze with vinegar. Add the garlic, shallot, and tomato. Cook briefly. Add the cream and stock. Return any chicken that is not cooked to the pan, lower heat, and simmer, covered, for 4 minutes.
4. Remove the chicken from the frying pan and set aside in the oven. Bring the sauce to a boil and reduce.
5. Divide chicken among warm serving dishes. Top with sauce. Sprinkle with parsley.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Season chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Dust with flour and set aside until needed. In the meantime, using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, melt butter over medium-high heat. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan and brown.
3. When browned, drain the pan of excess fat. Add the garlic, shallot, and mushrooms and cook briefly. Add white wine and deglaze. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes. Add cream and continue cooking until almost fully cooked.
4. Remove the chicken from the frying pan and set aside in the oven. Bring the sauce to a boil and reduce sightly. Add sweet wine, whipped cream, and lemon juice. Emulsify with an immersion blender.
5. Divide chicken among warm serving dishes. Top with sauce.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Season chicken pieces with pepper and salt. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, heat oil over medium-high heat. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan and brown. Reserve in oven.
3. Add the onions and garlic to hot oil, lower heat to medium, and brown. When browned, return chicken to frying pan along with the thyme sprigs, lemon juice, and chicken stock. Lower heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until the chicken is tender. Remove the pieces as each is done and reserve in oven.
4. When all the chicken pieces are cooked, uncover the pan, remove and discard the thyme sprigs, add the thyme leaves, and cook until the liquid is reduced totally.
5. Place a mound of onions on each warm serving plate. Divide chicken among the plates and serve.

1. Cover the raisins with armagnac and soak for 8 hours or more.
2. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
3. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and brown in the hot pan.
4. Discard the cooking oil and deglaze the pan with the verjus. Add the armagnac and the raisins, lower the heat, cover, and cook the chicken for about 20 minutes, or until tender.
5. Remove the chicken from the frying pan and set aside in the warm oven. Add the stock and cream to the pan. Increase the heat and cook until the sauce is reduced and thickened. Adjust the seasoning.
6. Arrange the chicken pieces on the serving plates and divide the sauce among the servings.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Season chicken pieces with pepper and salt. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, melt butter over medium-high heat. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan and brown.
3. Remove the chicken and keep warm. Add shallots, onion, carrots, and garlic to the hot pan and sauté until the onion softens. Add chicken stock, tomato paste, sage, cream, and reserved chicken. Bring to a boil, lower heat to simmer and cook uncovered. Remove pieces of the chicken as they cook and keep warm.
4. When all the chicken is removed, transfer sauce to a blender and purée. Return sauce to the pan and reduce.
5. In the meantime, melt butter for garnish in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add endives. Season with sugar, salt, and pepper. Continue cooking until the endive is tender.
6. Arrange chicken pieces on warm serving plate, top with sauce, and garnish with endive.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Season chicken pieces with pepper and salt. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, melt butter over medium-high heat. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan and brown.
3. Remove the chicken and keep warm. Add the onion and carrot to the hot pan and sauté until the onion softens. Add the flour, mix well, and brown slightly. Add the cider, stock, bouquet garni, calvados, and reserved chicken. Bring to a boil, lower heat to simmer, cover, and cook. Remove pieces of the chicken as they cook and keep warm.
4. When all the chicken is removed, increase heat to high and reduce remaining sauce by one-half. Strain sauce into a saucepan, add cream, and reduce until thickened.
5. In the meantime, melt the butter for the garnish in a medium sauté pan over high heat. Add the apple wedges, salt and pepper, and sauté until tender and golden. Keep warm until needed.
6. Divide chicken and apple wedges among warm serving dishes. Top with sauce.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, heat oil over medium-high heat. Season chicken pieces with pepper and salt. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan and brown.
3. Add garlic and onion and cook briefly. Add liver, tomatoes, thyme and bay leaf. Cook for an additional minute while mixing ingredients in pan.
4. Add wine, bring to a boil, cover and simmer until chicken is cooked, about 10 to 20 minutes.
5. Remove chicken pieces, cover with foil and keep warm. Remove thyme and bay leaf and discard. Degrease cooking liquid if it appears too fatty and then reduce it until thickened.
6. Arrange chicken pieces on serving plates and top with tomato sauce. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

1. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.
2. Season chicken pieces with pepper and salt. Using a high-sided frying pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Place the chicken pieces in the hot pan, skin side down. Brown both sides of the chicken pieces and set aside.
3. In the fat remaining in the frying pan, sauté the garlic and shallots until they start to soften and take on color. Deglaze the pan with the vinegar and wine. Incorporate the honey and tomato paste. Add the stock. When bubbling, return the chicken to the pan along with any juices exuded, lower heat to simmer, cover, and continue cooking chicken.
4. As each piece of chicken is cooked, remove it from the frying pan and keep warm in a bowl.
5. Reduce the sauce by half. Remove the pan from the heat and incorporate the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and any juices from the chicken.
6. Divide chicken among warm serving dishes. Top with sauce and sprinkle with parsley.