brasseries

Brasseries are a unique institution in France. Other countries have restaurants (in the United States these are called “coffee shops”) that are open from early in the day until late in the evening, but in France they are an institution. If you walk into a classic brasserie (the first one, Brasserie Bofinger, reportedly opened in 1864) you can almost be guaranteed you will be able to order a salade composé and get a salad large enough to have as a meal by itself. Or maybe your desire runs to a pizza or pasta — go to a brasserie. If you want a full meal there are steaks of various configurations with choices of sauces like Roquefort, béarnaise, poivre, or even sometimes mexicaine — all served with a garnish of vegetables and potatoes. If the classic steak frites is ordered, a plate of steak and French fries will arrive. For those who like their meat less cooked there is steak tartare, which in brasseries often will be prepared tableside or even left to the patron to assemble. Other classic dishes such as coq au vin, blanquette de veau, or even andouillettes are also often on the menu. Brasseries with an Alsacian bent will have a selection of tarte flambés and choucroute garni featured on their menus. For the non-red meat eater, there’s usually a chicken selection and a few choices of fish. In fact, some brasseries specialize in seafood and serve a variety of raw shellfish as well as cooked selections. And if you are still hungry, there’s dessert. Many brasseries have separate dessert menus for those who come just for the sweeter things in life. Nowadays, there are also brasseries that stray from the traditional and are serving a unique mix of modern, often original, dishes, but these are not as common as traditional brasseries.

As you travel throughout France, you generally encounter brasseries in the center of the larger cities — in places that can support a restaurant that’s open long hours. Most items on the menus are available after eleven in the morning, or later, since most people stopping by in the morning are grabbing a cup of café express and maybe a croissant. For some, it’s a quick nip to kick start the day — two centiliters of marc to wake up. At lunch, brasseries are bustling with a lunch time crowd grabbing a salad, pasta, or pizza. (I once had a great hamburger in one in Paris!) In the afternoon, friends gather at the brasserie for coffee or drinks. Brasseries usually have full bars and many feature a selection of beers on tap. (The word “brasserie” is derived from the word for brewery.) In the early evening, people eating dinner occupy many of the tables. Later it’s the dessert eaters. But this is only the “plan.” At any hour of the day, you’ll find someone doing something different from what may be expected.

It’s not unusual for a brasserie to have two or three rows of small tables in front of the restaurant along the sidewalk. What can be a better summertime activity than sitting at a sidewalk table, quaffing a beer, while watching the world walk by? Usually, it’s drinks and snacks outside with the big meals inside, but in warm weather, the outside tables can be full of diners at meal times. There’s no minimum purchase outside — order a café express for a euro and sit all day. On a busy street when the weather’s nice and there are lots of walkers, I can’t think of a better way to pass the time.

Throughout France there are independent brasseries, but there are also chains like Au Bureau and Brasserie Maître Kanter. With the chains there’s consistency, but with the independents there’s adventure. Many of these brasseries also call themselves cafés because they serve snacks — the dividing line sometimes becomes quite blurred. But brasseries generally are not bars where people go as solo acts to imbibe. Often if you see a single person drinking alone, soon friends will arrive, cheeks will be kissed, and the solo drinker will no longer be alone. Brasseries are a place to socialize.

Like all restaurants in France, brasseries are required to post their menus outside. This makes it easy to consider your selection before choosing one brasserie over another. For those who cannot walk the streets of France at this moment, I offer a selection of menu possibilities so you can create your own brasserie fantasy. Of course it helps if a formally dressed waiter wearing a starched, long, white apron serves the meal.

Brasserie menus are typically divided into sections based on the type of selection being presented as opposed to the course being served — the practice for restaurant menus. The following are fictitious but typical sections that may be found on brasserie menus. How many and which sections will vary from brasserie to brasserie. [Note: click on the icons following a menu selection to link to a recipe for that selection. The icon () indicates a new recipe. The icon () indicates recipes previously published on the web site.]

Some brasserie menus combine all boissons (drinks) in a single section, but the larger ones provide separate sections for each grouping of drinks. And the French love to start a meal with an aperitif.

Kir royal champagne

champagne with a splash of crème de cassis

Kir au vin blanc

white wine with a splash of crème de cassis

Coupe de champagne

glass of champagne

Porto blanc ou rouge

white or red port wine

Cocktail maison

the special cocktail of the house

Pastis

an anise-flavored liquor usually mixed with water in a ratio 1 part pastis to 5 parts water

Vermouth blanc ou rouge

white or red Italian vermouth — French vermouth, Noilly Prat, is usually listed by name

Dubonnet

a sweet, slightly fortified red wine

The above list is a bit brief. Most brasseries carry multiple brands of pastis, vermouth, and other alcoholic selections. Some offer blended and single-malt Scotch whiskies and a limited number of other high-proof, distilled spirits, too.

After the aperitifs, some menus jump right to the entrées (first courses), but many will feature a selection of fresh coquillages (shellfish) such as huîtres (oysters) or crustacés (crustaceans) such as prawns — each type served raw or cooked as is appropriate for the item. Other menus provide a selection of mussels.

Also preceding the entrées may be sandwiches, eggs, pizzas, pastas, or salads. Sometimes these items are broken into their own sections and sometimes they are simply divided by whether they are served cold or hot.

Salade verte

a small green salad

Salade niçoise

classic salade composée made with tuna, green beans, hard-cooked eggs, tomatoes, anchovies, olives, and greens

Salade paysanne

large salad made with cooked potatoes, tomatoes, hard-cooked eggs, walnuts, ham, brie, and greens

Salade parisienne

large salad made with cooked potatoes, tomatoes, hard-cooked eggs, ham, cheese, and greens

Frisée aux lardons et son œuf mollet

frisée salad with bacon and a soft-boiled egg

Œuf dur, mayonnaise

hard-cooked egg served with mayonnaise

Crudités

a selection of grated or chopped raw vegetables served with a vinaigrette

Sandwich jambon et buerre

sandwich made with a baguette, ham, and butter

Sandwich fromage

sandwich made with a baguette and cheese, usually gruyère — other cheeses will be listed by name

Sandwich rillettes

sandwich made with a baguette and “potted” meat

Salade tomates

sliced tomatoes, sometimes served with some greens and dressing

Some brasseries have a large selection of cold sandwiches while other brasseries don’t have any sandwiches on their menus. Similarly, some brasseries have huge selections of salads, while others may just have a green salad on their menu. The typical salad dressing served in brasseries is a vinaigrette made with mustard, wine vinegar, and olive oil. It may be made fresh or purchased in vats from a supply house.

Croque-monsieur

grilled sandwich with ham, gruyère, and béchamel made with pain de mie — white sandwich bread

Croque-madame

a croque-monsieur with a fried egg on top

Hot dog

one or two frankfurters set lengthwise in a baguette toasted with gruyère melted on top

Quiche

savory custard tart filled with various items, often ham and onions

Omelette nature

plain omelet

Omelette jambon

ham omelet

Omelette fromage

cheese omelet

Omelette champignons

mushroom omelet

Omelette fines herbes

fresh herb omelet

Omelette complet

omelet with ham, cheese, and other items as listed

Omelets are often served with an accompaniment of pommes frites (French-fried potatoes) or a small green salad. If a brasserie serves pizzas, there’ll probably be a selection of 10 or 12 to choose from. If they serve pasta, spaghetti served with a tomato-meat sauce is most common, but some brasseries have a half a dozen pasta choices from which to pick.

Some brasserie menus will list starters, first courses, as entrées while others will categorize them as hors-d’œuvres. A menu without a specific section for sandwiches, eggs, pizzas, pastas, or salads may also include one or more of those items in their list of starters. A menu with these items separated out will have an entrée section that looks more like the following.

Terrine de lièvre

slice of rabbit terrine

Pâté de campagne

coarse pork pâté

Saumon fumé

smoked salmon

Soupe à l’oignon gratinée

onion soup baked with a slice of baguette and cheese on top

Escargots de Bourgogne

snails cooked in garlic and butter

Assiette de saucisson sec

selection of sliced, dried sausages

Fillet de hareng

pickled herring fillet, usually served with potato salad

Fois gras frais de canard

slice of fresh foie gras terrine served with toast

Main courses can also be grouped together or separated into meat and seafood; the mix is a function of what the brasserie emphasizes. These selections are usually served with a side-dish of vegetables. There often are a variety of steaks — entrecôte (rib steak), rumsteck (rump-steak), bavette (skirt steak), onglet (flank or skirt steak), and faux-fillet (sirloin) — served with a choice of sauces. Alsacian-style brasseries will serve a number of choucroutes, but other brasseries may only have one on their menu. Other brasseries may have a separate section of sausage specialties. In addition to the vegetables listed with each menu item in the main courses, some brasseries offer an additional and separate selection of vegetable side-dishes called legumes aux choix.

Rognons de veau flambée

veal kidneys

Foie de veau poelé

pan-fried veal liver

Saumon à l’unilaterale

fresh saumon grilled on one side only

Sole fraîche à la meunière

fresh fillet of sole cooked in butter

Choucroute alsacienne garnie

selection of smoked and cured meats and sausages served with sauerkraut and boiled potatoes

Pavé de turbot poché hollandaise

poached turbot fillet with a hollandaise sauce

Steak tartare

chopped raw beef seasoned with raw egg, capers, chopped onions, and parsley

Entrecôte grillée béarnaise

grilled rib steak with béarnaise sauce

Andouillette AAAAA* Grillée

grilled sausage made of pork or veal intestines

Hamburger œuf à cheval

grilled, chopped beef served with a fried egg on top

Bœuf bourguignon

beef stew made with Burgundy wine

Blanquette de veau

veal stew with a white sauce

* Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Authentiques Andouillettes — society of lovers of authentic andouillettes

In addition to the standard selection of main courses, many brasseries also offer a selection of plats du jour — daily specials. These may be written on the menu or posted on the wall.

Following the French tradition of eating cheese at the end of the meal, brasseries usually offer the patron a small selection of cheeses. It is rare for a brasserie to have a large cheese tray like the fancy restaurants have. If they offer cheese there is a small list on the menu listing a half a dozen choices or maybe even a combination plate. If the patron orders camembert, he or she gets a wedge of camembert on a plate. There may also be a few slices of fresh fruit and a piece of bread offered with the cheese, but sometimes it is just served plain.

To accompany the meal there is a choice of wine by the glass, pitcher, or bottle; beer on draft or from the bottle; mineral water with or without gas; soft drinks; and carafe d’eau — a carafe of tap water. A brasserie may have a list of vintage wines, but it is more common to find a carte des vins — wine list — that lists the selection by appellation. When ordering wine by the pitcher, the selection may be limited to just rouge ou blanc — red or white.

To end the meal, or for a snack, a separate menu of dessert choices may be offered by the waiter. Some brasseries offer an extensive selection of dessert possibilities, while others have a more limited selection from which to choose. There may be whole pages of ice cream and sorbet selections and combinations. There may be a large selection of crepes or baked items. But a typical limited selection may look like the following.

Crème brûlée

custard with a caramelized sugar top

Mousse au chocolat

chocolate mousse

Poire belle-Hélène

poached pear with chocolate sauce

Crêpe au sucre

plain, thin pancake sprinkled with sugar

Coupe de fruits frais

bowl of fresh fruit

Coupes de glace ou sorbet

one or more scoops of ice cream or sorbet

Œufs à la neige

poached egg whites served with a fruit sauce

Tarte tatin

upside down caramelized apple tart

Tarte aux poires

pear tart

Gâteau au chocolate

chocolate cake

This list of desserts is representative of the bare minimum usually found in brasseries — most are much longer.

Following the meal, or sometimes instead of one, the patron can choose from a selection of boissons chaudes — hot drinks — and digestifs — after-dinner drinks. The usual full selection of coffees and teas are available. A short list of digestifs may look like the following, but chances are that any liquor that one desires can be obtained upon request.

Although the service in a brasserie may be quick, it is really okay to linger, to relax, and to enjoy the experience. The food may not always be haute cuisine, but the experience can still be quite pleasant.

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The classic “blanquette” is made with veal, usually cut from the shoulder. Nowadays, it is possible to find “blanquettes” made from chicken, fish, or pork. The meat can be cooked a day in advance of serving. The onions and carrots can be cooked just before serving while the broth is reducing. Finish the sauce just before serving.

blanquette de veau

450 g (1 lb)

boneless veal, cut into large, stew‑size pieces

1, 15‑cm (6‑in) branch

celery, deveined, 12‑mm (1⁄2‑in) pieces

1

bouquet garni

1 small

yellow onion, peeled

1 whole

clove

4 small

carrots, peeled

6

spring onions, with 2 cm (3⁄4 in) of green, or small flat onions, peeled and trimmed of roots

85 g (3 oz) small

mushrooms, cleaned

1 extra‑large

egg yolk

80 ml (1⁄3 c)

heavy cream

2 T

unsalted butter

2 T

all‑purpose flour

1 T

fresh lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the veal in a saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Boil for a minute or so. Drain and rinse with fresh water. Return the meat to the sauce pan. Add the celery, the bouquet garni, and the yellow onion spiked with the clove. Add sufficient water to just cover the meat and vegetables. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer, and cover. Simmer for 40 minutes.

2. Place the carrots in a small frying pan with enough water to cover and simmer until barely cooked. Drain and reserve.

3. Place the spring onions in a small frying pan with enough water to cover and simmer until barely cooked. Drain and reserve.

4. When the time is up on the meat, add the mushrooms and continue to simmer for 20 minutes more.

5. When the meat and mushrooms are cooked, drain the broth through a fine strainer, and bring to a boil in the same sauce pan. Set the meat and mushrooms aside. Discard the onion, clove, bouquet garni, and celery. Reduce the broth to about 250 ml (1 c).

6. Whisk the egg yolk and combine with the cream. Set aside. Melt the butter in a small sauce pan and combine with the flour. Whisk in the reduced broth. Add some of the hot, thickened broth to the egg mixture to temper it. Whisk the egg mixture into the broth and bring to a low boil. Whisk in the lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

7. Add the reserved meat and mushrooms to the sauce to reheat. Reheat the carrots and onions in hot water.

8. Divide meat and mushrooms on warm plates. Decorate with the drained carrots and onions.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Guide Cuisine, Autumn 1997 Supplement, page 67.

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There are bœuf bourguignon recipes that can be prepared all at once and there are recipes such as the one following where the beef is marinated for a day before cooking. This recipe is also different from many others because the vegetables cooked with the beef are puréed with the sauce to thicken and flavor it. Much of this recipe can be prepared in advance and just reheated before serving. Purée de pomme de terre — mashed potatoes — makes an ideal side dish for this French beef stew.

bœuf bourguignon

350 ml (11⁄2 c)

Burgundy wine

500 g (11⁄8 lb)

beef chuck, cut into 3 to 4‑cm (1 to 11⁄2‑in) chunks

50 g (13⁄4 oz)

carrot, cut into 3‑mm (1⁄8‑in) thick slices

50 g (13⁄4 oz)

onion, cut into 3‑mm (1⁄8‑in) thick slices

olive oil

1

bouquet garni

1 clove

garlic, peeled and cut in half

salt and freshly ground black pepper

50 g (13⁄4 oz)

thick bacon, cut into ⅛˝ wide strips

50 g (13⁄4 oz) small

common mushrooms

50 g (13⁄4 oz), 6 to 8

pearl onions

1 T

unsalted butter

1 t

sugar

1 T

balsamic vinegar

1. Bring wine to a boil in a saucepan over high heat. Flame off the alcohol. Cool completely.

2. Marinate beef, carrot slices, and onion slices in the cooled wine for 24 hours.

3. Drain the solids from the marinade, reserving the wine. Separate the meat from the vegetables.

4. Heat some oil in a saucepan over high heat. Brown the meat in small batches, adding more oil as necessary. After all the meat is browned, brown the reserved vegetables in oil for about 4 minutes.

5. Preheat oven to 200°C (390°F).

6. Drain any fat from the saucepan and return the meat, vegetables, and wine to it. Bring to a boil. Skim any scum that forms. Add bouquet garni and garlic, season with salt and pepper, cover, and place in the oven. Cook for about 21⁄2 hours until the meat is tender.

7. About 30 minutes before the meat is done, place the bacon in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain well. Place bacon in a frying pan over low heat and cook until it starts to brown. Drain on absorbent paper. Keep warm.

8. Cook the mushrooms in a frying pan over medium heat with a little water until tender. Salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm.

9. Place the pearl onions in a small saucepan with the butter and sugar over high heat. Cover the onions with water and bring to a boil. When the onions are tender and the water has evaporated, caramelize the onions a small amount. Add the vinegar and cook until it has evaporated fully. Keep warm.

10. When the meat is cooked, separate it from the sauce and vegetables. Puree the sauce and vegetables with a hand blender. Return the meat to the sauce and keep warm.

11. Divide the meat and sauce on the serving plates. Sprinkle the cooked bacon and mushrooms over the meat. Serve the onions on the side.

Note: Serve with purée de pommes de terre.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Bernard Loiseau, Cuisine en Famille, page 140.

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Choucroute garnie, although served in individual portions in brasseries, is usually prepared in large quantity. The selection of smoked meats can vary from recipe to recipe with the only constant being the presence of boiled potatoes and sauerkraut. Since the meats are all purchased pre-cooked, this recipe can easily be prepared in about 40 minutes. Serve the finished dish with lots of Dijon-style mustard and goblets of Alsacian white wine. Nowadays, it is also possible to find recipes for choucroutes based on chicken or fish as well as smoked meats.

choucroute garnie

1 small

smoked ham hock, cut in half (jarret de porc)

300 g (11 oz)

smoked slab bacon (lard fumé)

6 very small

new potatoes

2

veal frankfurters (saucisse de Strasbourg)

1

smoked sausage, cut in two (saucisse de Morteau)

2 small

white sausages (boudin blanc)

choucroute:

300 g (11 oz)

sauerkraut

1 T

goose fat

1⁄4

onion, thinly sliced

1⁄4 t

pureed garlic

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

Alsatian white wine, such as riesling

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

chicken broth

bouquet garni

black pepper

1. Place the sauerkraut in a bowl and cover with cold water. Set aside for 10 minutes. Drain well.

2. Bring a large pot of water with the ham hock and bacon to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer until the meat is tender.

3. In a saucepan, heat the fat over medium heat. Cook the onion and garlic until soft. Add the sauerkraut, wine, broth, bouquet garni, and pepper. Cover and cook over medium‑low heat for about 20 minutes.

4. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil and cook the potatoes until done. Drain and keep warm until needed.

5. Ten minutes before the sauerkraut is ready, add the sausages to the meat pot to heat through.

6. To serve, divide the sauerkraut among the serving plates. Add half the sausages and potatoes to eat plate. Serve with Dijon‑style mustard.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Pierre Franey and Richard Flaste, Pierre Franey’s Cooking in France, pages 286 and 289.

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There are many ways of preparing and serving crepes, but this version is one of the simplest along with crêpe au confiture (crepe with jam).

crêpe au sucre

unsalted butter

finely granulated sugar

pâte lisse de crêpe:

65 g (scant 1⁄2 c)

all‑purpose flour

pinch

fine salt

1 extra‑large

egg, beaten

125 ml (1⁄2 c)

whole milk

1⁄2 T

oil

1. For pâte lisse de crêpe: Mix flour and salt. Add egg and mix with a wooden spoon. Slowly add milk and mix until smooth. Incorporate oil. Set batter aside for an hour before using.

2. Preheat oven to 170 °F. Preheat serving plates.

3. Using a well‑seasoned or nonstick crepe pan, prepare two 10‑inch diameter crepes. Before removing each crepe from the pan, brush the crepe lightly with butter, sprinkle with sugar, and fold into eighths.

4. Place a finished crepe on each heated plate and serve.

Yield: 2 servings.

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In the brasseries of Paris, two forms of croque-monsieur can be found: one prepared with pain de mie (square sandwich bread) and one prepared with the rustic bread made by Max Poilaine. When the latter is used, the menu will usually call the dish croque-monsieur pain Poilaine. Another variation is that some chefs prepare the sandwich with sauce béchamel, as shown below, and some simply butter the bread before cooking.

croque-monsieur

unsalted butter

4 slices

crusty bread

2 slices

smoked ham

40 g (11⁄3 oz)

grated Gruyère cheese

sauce béchamel:

1 t

unsalted butter

1 t

all‑purpose flour

65 ml (1⁄4+ c)

whole milk

dash

freshly ground nutmeg

1. Prepare the sauce béchamel: melt butter in a small sauce pan over medium heat. Add flour and cook a minute or two without browning. Whisk in the milk and continue stirring until thick and warm. Season with a little nutmeg. The finished sauce should be very thick, not runny.

2. Butter the bread slices on one side. Assemble the sandwiches by placing two slices of bread butter side down on the work surface. Divide the ham on the bread slices and cover with the remaining slices of bread, butter side up.

3. Preheat a broiler.

4. Grill the sandwiches in a nonstick frying pan over medium heat until golden.

5. Divide the white sauce over the tops of the sandwiches and sprinkle with the cheese. Place the sandwiches on a baking sheet and put under the broiler until the cheese melts and the top is golden.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Joël Robouchon (ed), Larousse Gastronomique, page 360.

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foie de veau aux oignons et câpres

2 T

unsalted butter

1⁄2 medium to large

white onion, thinly sliced

2 T

salted capers, rinsed and drained

1 t

finely diced garlic

1⁄2 t

finely minced fresh rosemary

2 T

all‑purpose flour

salt and freshly ground black pepper

225 g (1⁄2 lb)

sliced calf’s liver

1 T

red wine vinegar

1 T

finely chopped fresh flat‑leaf parsley

1. Heat 1 T butter in a frying pan. Add onions, salt and pepper. Fry until onions are wilted. Add capers, garlic and rosemary. Continue cooking over medium heat for 5 minutes.

2. Heat 1 T butter in a second frying pan large enough to hold the liver in a single layer. Blend flour with salt and pepper. Dredge liver in flour mixture and shake off excess. Fry liver over high heat, about 2 minutes per side, until medium‑rare. Transfer to heated serving plate.

3. Transfer onions to frying pan used for liver, add vinegar, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add 1 T butter and swirl around. Pour mixture over liver slices.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Pierre Franey, Pierre Franey’s Cooking in France, 1994, page 212.

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kir royal

about 125 ml (1⁄2 c)

fine champagne

about 1 T

crème de cassis

1. Method A. Fill a champagne flute three‑quarters full with champagne. Carefully pour a little crème de cassis down through the center of the champagne so it settles at the bottom of the flute. Stir or don’t stir, as preferred. Method B. Pour a little crème de cassis into the bottom of a champagne flute. Slowly add champagne to the flute so the crème de cassis dissolves into the champagne.

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Mousse au chocolat can be prepared with eggs, like the following recipe, or with cream or a combination of both. A version prepared with beaten egg whites is generally lighter than one made with whipped cream. In brasseries, this dish is often placed into large tureens and spooned onto serving plates. Use a good quality chocolate and very fresh eggs for this preparation.

mousse au chocolat

2 extra‑large

egg whites

11⁄2 T

finely granulated sugar

63 g (21⁄4 oz)

chocolate (64% cocoa mass)

2 T

unsalted butter

1 extra‑large

egg yolk

1. Beat the egg whites with the sugar until stiff. Set aside.

2. In the meantime, bring some water to a boil in the bottom of a bain‑marie. Melt the chocolate over the boiling water of the bain‑marie. When most of the chocolate is melted, remove from the hot water. Add the butter and mix until melted. Add the egg yolk and mix.

3. Carefully fold the chocolate mixture into the egg whites.

4. Divide the mousse between individual serving bowls or place in a single bowl. Refrigerate well.

Yield: 2 to 3 servings.

Ref: Le Cordon Bleu Classic French Cookbook, page 119.

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pâté campagne

Dijon‑style mustard [optional]

“panko” breadcrumbs [optional]

oil [optional]

farce:

700 g (11⁄2 lb)

coarsely ground pork butt

170 g (6 oz)

coarsely ground veal

60 g (2 oz)

coarsely ground ham

170 g (6 oz)

finely ground pork fat

2

peeled, finely ground shallots

4 cloves

peeled, finely ground garlic

1⁄2 T

fresh thyme

2 t

fine salt

2.3 g

curing salt (6.25% sodium nitrate)

1 t

freshly ground black pepper

1⁄2 large

egg, beaten

60 ml (1⁄4 c)

dry white vermouth

1. Mix forcemeat ingredients together. Form the mixture into two bricks, each 15 cm (6 in) wide and 3 cm (11⁄4 in) thick. Pack into vacuum bags and seal. Refrigerate overnight.

2. Preheat water bath to 70°C (158°F).

3. Cook the pâté in the water bath for 2 hours.

4. Remove pâté from water and allow to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate overnight.

5. Remove the meat from the bag and slice in 11⁄2‑cm (5⁄8‑in) thick slices.

6. Serve as is or coat one side of slice with Dijon‑style mustard and breadcrumbs. Fry in hot oil until crispy. Drain and serve.

Yield: 700‑g (11⁄2 lb) loaf.

Ref: farce: Victoria Wise, American Charcuterie, 1986, page 20, cooking method: Thomas Keller, Under Pressure, 2008, page 152.

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The pears for this dessert are poached and cooled ahead of time. Just before serving, the sauce is prepared and used immediately—it does not hold well.

poires belle Hélène

2

firm pears with stems, left whole, cored at bottom, peeled

500 to 750 ml (2 to 3 c)

water

300 g (11⁄2 c)

sugar

1 T

lemon juice

vanilla ice cream

sauce au chocolat:

75 g (25⁄8 oz)

chocolate (72% cocoa mass)

20 g (12⁄3 T)

sugar

60 ml (1⁄4 c)

water

1. Using a sauce pan just large enough to hold the pears in a single layer, add pears and water just to cover. Remove pears. Add sugar and lemon juice. Bring to a boil. Add pears, reduce to simmer, cover, and cook until tender but not falling a part, about 20 minutes.

2. Remove pears from cooking liquid and cool. Discard poaching liquid.

3. Just before serving, place sauce ingredients in a small sauce pan over low heat. Stir constantly for about 10 minutes until the sauce is smooth and thickened.

4. Place drained pears on serving plates. Place two small scoops of ice cream next to each pear. Top pear with chocolate sauce. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Linda Dannenberg, Paris Bistro Cooking, 1991, page 35.

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rillettes de porc

130 g (1⁄4 lb)

fatback, cut into 21⁄2‑cm (1‑in) cubes

400 g (1 lb)

pork butt, cut into 21⁄2‑cm (1‑in) cubes

1 t

coarse salt

1⁄2 t

dried thyme

1⁄4 t

ground coriander

2

bay leaves

1 t

freshly ground black pepper

1⁄8 t

ground allspice

4 cloves

garlic, crushed

2 T

brandy or eau‑de‑vie

75 ml (5 T)

water

lard, as required

1. Combine all the ingredients except the water, cover tightly, and marinate overnight.

2. Preheat oven to 150°C (300°F).

3. Transfer all the marinated ingredients plus the water to a heavy‑bottomed saucepan or casserole. Cover and roast for 4 hours.

4. At completion of the roasting, place the saucepan over medium heat and boil off any water remaining. Discard the bay leaves.

5. Transfer the meat without the fat to the bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle. Use the mixer at low speed to break up the meat while slowly adding the fat. Pack the meat into a 300‑g (11⁄4 c) ceramic terrine. Pour melted lard over the top and refrigerate.

6. Let rillettes come to room temperature before serving.

Yield: 1, 300‑g (11⁄4 c), terrine.

Ref: Michael Roberts, Parisian Home Cooking, page 20.

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Salade niçoise has as many variations as there are cooks preparing this classic salad. Although it is common to find the salad containing greens, as in this recipe, there are also versions which contain no greens. Some “purists” claim that authentic versions do not contain any salad greens. Although traditional versions of this salad use cooked tuna — usually from a can — there are also versions using fresh tuna that is just seared on the surface only leaving the interior raw. Another common variation is where anchovies preserved in oil are used versus those preserved in salt.

salade niçoise

3 very small

new potatoes, cooked, peeled, and sliced into rounds

50 g (12⁄3 oz)

French green beans, trimmed and cooked

1⁄4

green bell pepper, cut into julienne

1⁄4

red bell pepper, cut into julienne

sufficient for 2 salads

unsalted butter lettuce

100 g (31⁄2 oz)

canned tuna, drained

6

oil‑packed anchovies, drained and cut in half lengthwise

1⁄4

red onion, thinly sliced crosswise

1

hard‑cooked egg, cut into 6 wedges

1 medium

tomato, cut into 6 wedges

12

Niçoise olives, pitted

vinaigrette:

11⁄2 T

white wine vinegar

6 T

extra‑virgin olive oil

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. For vinaigrette: Whisk the oil into the vinegar, one tablespoon at a time. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

2. Combine the potatoes, beans, and peppers in a bowl and toss with half the vinaigrette.

3. Divide the salad greens among the serving plates. Mound the mixed vegetables in the center of the greens. Flake the tuna over the vegetables. Arrange 6 anchovy strips in a 3 by 3 lattice on the center of the greens. Scatter the onions around the rim of the greens. Arrange the 3 egg and 3 tomato wedges in an alternate pattern around the edge of the greens on each plate. Arrange 6 olives on each plate.

4. Spoon the remaining vinaigrette over the salads.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Le Cordon Bleu At Home, page 218.

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salade parisienne

sufficient for 2 large salads

salad greens, washed and dried

4 very small

new potatoes, cooked, cooled, and sliced

2 small

tomatoes, cut into wedges

1

hard‑cooked egg, sliced

50 g (12⁄3 oz)

ham, cut into strips

50 g (12⁄3 oz)

Gruyère cheese, cut into strips

vinaigrette:

1⁄2 T

Dijon‑style mustard

11⁄2 T

white wine vinegar

6 T

extra virgin olive oil

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. For vinaigrette: Whisk the mustard with the vinegar until the mustard is dissolved. Whisk the oil into the vinegar, one tablespoon at a time. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

2. Break salad greens into bite‑size pieces and divide among the serving plates.

3. Arrange the potato slices, tomato wedges, egg slices, ham strips, and cheese strips on the greens in an attractive manner.

4. Divide the vinaigrette among the two salads or serve on the side.

Yield: 2 servings.

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This simple salmon preparation can be served plain or with a sauce, such as sauce citron et pastis.

saumon à l’unilaterale

2 T

unsalted butter

2 (about 150 g [5 oz] each)

skinless salmon filets

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 205°C (400°F).

2. Melt the butter in an oven‑proof frying pan over high heat.

3. Season the fillets with salt and pepper and place skin side down in the hot butter. Fry for a minute and then place the frying pan in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes.

4. When the internal temperature of the salmon reaches 43°C (109°F), remove the frying pan from the oven, transfer the salmon fillets to a plate, and tent with foil for 5 minutes.

5. Serve the salmon with the browned side up.

Yield: 2 servings.

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I learned this recipe from Louis Outhier, a retired Michelin 3-star chef from the south of France. He prepared this version for Chef Médigue, chef at Château d’Amondans, his family, and myself for dinner. It was served with pommes frites (French-fried potatoes). In brasseries, tartare de bœuf is often prepared table side by the waiter or it may be served as separate components so the patron can mix the dish as he or she wishes.

tartare de bœuf à la manière de Louis Outhier

450 g (1 lb)

very fresh beef (inside round, top round, sirloin tip steak preferred), finely diced (not ground)

50 g (12⁄3 oz)

onion, finely diced

15 g (1⁄2 oz)

garlic, finely diced

25 g (1 oz)

cornichons, finely diced

2 T

finely minced parsley

15 g (1 oz)

capers, chopped

2 T

Heinz ketchup

1 T

cognac

Tabasco sauce

Lea & Perrins Worchestershire Sauce

fine salt

mayonnaise:

1 extra‑large

egg yolk

1 T

Dijon‑style mustard

10 T

sunflower seed oil

salt

1. Prepare mayonnaise: Whisk yolk and mustard together. Slowly add oil while whisking continuously. Adjust salt. Set aside.

2. Combine beef with onions, garlic, cornichons, parsley, and capers using a rubber spatula. Add ketchup, cognac, and mayonnaise and mix well. Add a couple of squirts of Tabasco and Worchestershire Sauce. Add salt and test.

3. Divide among chilled serving plates.

Note: Serve with croutons or toast points. Fried potatoes make a nice garnish.

Yield: 4 servings.

Ref: Louis Outhier, Amondans, France, May, 2000.

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After the ubiquitous tarte aux pommes (apple tart), pear tarts are possibly the next most common tart found in brasseries. The following recipe has an almond-custard filling with whole pear halves, but it is also common to find pear tarts with a pastry cream filling and with slices of pears as variations. There are also tarts with no filling, but tightly packed with sliced or chopped pears.

tarte aux poires

pâte brisée au sucrée:

250 g (13⁄4 c)

all‑purpose flour

100 g (1⁄2 c)

finely granulated sugar

1⁄4 t

salt

1⁄4 t

baking powder

113 g (8 T)

cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

60 ml (4 T)

cold milk

poires pochées:

1 l (1 qt)

water

250 g (11⁄4 c)

granulated sugar

3

pears, peeled, halved, and cored

flan:

2 extra‑large

eggs

70 g (1⁄3 c)

granulated sugar

125 ml (1 c)

whole milk

125 ml (1 c)

heavy cream

90 g (31⁄4 oz)

whole blanched almonds, ground

1⁄8 t

vanilla powder

1. For pâte brisée: Combine flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and butter in the bowl of a food processor. Process for 10 to 12 seconds until the mixture is dry and crumbly. Add milk and pulse 12 to 14 times until the dough begins to hold together, but before it turns into a ball. Remove dough from processor bowl and shape into a smooth disk. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour.

2. For poires: Combine water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Adjust volume of water and sugar proportionally as required so that pears can be totally submerged. Place pear halves in the pan and poach for about 10 minutes until almost tender. Remove from heat. Allow pears to cool in syrup. When cool, remove from syrup and drain. Discard syrup.

3. Bring dough to room temperature. Roll the dough on a floured work surface until it is 3 mm (1⁄8 in) thick and 32 cm (121⁄2 in) in diameter. Transfer the dough to a 25‑cm (10‑in) tart pan and gently press it into the bottom and fluted sides of the pan. Flute the edges and prick the bottom of the pan with a fork. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.

4. Preheat oven to 190°C (375°F).

5. Line the tart dough‑filled pan with aluminum foil and pie weights. Blind bake for 10 minutes. Remove weights and foil and continue baking for 5 minutes more. Set aside to cool before filling.

6. Preheat oven to 205°C (400°F).

7. For flan: whisk the eggs and sugar together. Whisk in the milk and cream. Combine the almond powder with the vanilla powder and whisk the combination into the liquids.

8. Arrange the pear halves, flat side down in a rosette pattern in the pastry shell. Carefully pour the custard into the shell to fill the spaces around the pears.

9. Bake until the custard is set, the top golden, and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, about 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool before serving.

Yield: 12 servings.

Ref: for pâte: Linda Dannenberg, French Tarts, 1997, page 17; for flan: Gerald Hirigoyen, Bistro, 1995, page 101.

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.

kir

about 125 ml (1⁄2 c)

dry white wine

about 1 T

crème de cassis

1. Method A. Fill a champagne flute three‑quarters full with wine. Carefully pour a little crème de cassis down through the center of the wine so it settles at the bottom of the flute. Stir or don’t stir, as preferred. Method B. Pour a little crème de cassis into the bottom of a champagne flute. Slowly add wine to the flute so the crème de cassis dissolves into the wine.

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Salade Frisée à la Lyonnaise was one of the first French dishes I learned to prepare. I had already eaten the dish at Hirigoyen's restaurant, Le Fringale, in San Francisco, so I knew what to expect. The flavors of the individual ingredients blend — delightfully bound together by the poached egg. Choose a pancetta with lots of flavor. The one I use is cured in a vinegar brine which gives the pancetta a slightly sour taste.

salade frisée à la lyonnaise

2 small heads

frisée

110 g (4 oz)

bacon, 3‑mm (1⁄8‑in) thick slices cut into 12‑mm (1⁄2‑in) wide strips

6 slices

baguettes, 12 mm (1⁄2 in) thick

2 T

olive oil

1 T

red wine vinegar

2 large

eggs

1 T

finely minced chives

freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 230 °C (450 °F).

2. Wash and dry frisée. Use whitest parts for the salad. Break into small pieces and place into a large mixing bowl. Set aside.

3. Place bacon in a small pan with water to cover and bring to a boil. Drain, rinse with cold water, and set aside.

4. Brush baguette slices with 1 T oil on both sides and arrange on a baking sheet. Place in oven and toast, turning once until edges are golden brown, about 3 or 4 minutes. Set aside.

5. Fill a saucepan three‑fourths full with water and bring to a boil. Add a splash of vinegar and reduce heat so that water is just below a boil. One at a time, break eggs into a small bowl and slip gently into water. Poach until the whites appear cooked, but the yolks are still liquid, about 3 minutes.

6. In the meantime, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a frying pan and add the drained bacon. Fry until golden but not crisp. Deglaze with vinegar and stir for about a minute. Pour over frisée, add chives, and toss well. Arrange on individual plates.

7. Remove eggs from water and drain well on absorbent paper. Place one egg on each salad.

8. Add a few turns of black pepper and garnish with baguette slices.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Gerald Hirigoyen, Bistro, 1995, page 38.

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This is a very traditional omelet. Although there are only a few ingredients used in its preparation, the taste is actually quite sophisticated. The combination of herbs can be varied, but Escoffier advises: “It is absolutely incorrect to consider an omelet made only with parsley as an omelette aux fines herbes.”

omelette aux fines herbes

1 T

butter

3 large

eggs

fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 T

minced herbs, a combination of parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives

1. Preheat oven to 75 °C (170 °F). Preheat the serving plate.

2. Melt butter in a large nonstick frying pan over high heat. While the butter is melting, lightly beat the eggs, salt and pepper, and herbs. Add the eggs to the melted butter. Using a spatula, scramble the eggs until two‑thirds cooked. Then spread the eggs evenly out across the bottom of the frying pan. Let the eggs fully set. Roll the omelet out onto a heated plate.

3. Serve immediately.

Yield: 1 serving.

Ref: Auguste Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire, 1982 edition of translation of 1921 edition, page 176.

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gratinée lyonnaise

75 g (5 T)

unsalted butter

350 g (3⁄4 lb)

peeled, halved, and sliced yellow onions

1 T

all‑purpose flour

11⁄4 l (51⁄4 c)

water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 small

bouquet garni

100 g (31⁄2 oz)

thinly sliced baguette

125 g (41⁄2 oz)

grated Gruyère cheese

1 large

egg yolk

1 T

Madeira wine

1. Preheat oven to 230°C (445°F).

2. Melt butter over medium heat in a large saucepan. Add onions and sweat unless soft and golden. Sprinkle the flour over the onions. Mix well and cook a bit. Add the water, salt, pepper, and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for about 30 minutes.

3. In the meantime, dry baguette slices in the oven. Set aside until needed.

4. Discard the bouquet garni and puree the rest of the onion mixture in a food processor. Strain the puree into a sauce pan. Use a rubber spatula to force the solids through the strainer. Keep warm.

5. Line the bottom of the soup bowls with alternating layers of bread and half the grated cheese. Gently divide the soup among the bowls. Divide the remaining cheese among the bowls. Place the bowls in the oven until the cheese is melted.

6. Combine the egg yolk and the wine. Divide the mixture over the top of the melted cheese and return to the oven until the mixture cooks.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Paul Bocuse, La Cuisine du Marché, 1998, page 73.

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escargots au beurre d’ail

6 g (1 T)

parsley, finely minced

6 g (1 t)

shallot, finely minced

9 g (1 T)

garlic, finely minced

2 g (1⁄4 t)

fine salt

1 g (1⁄4 t)

freshly ground black pepper

1⁄2 T

white wine

1 t

cognac

dash

nutmeg

90 g (61⁄3 T)

unsalted butter, softened

12

escargots de Bourgogne

1. Pound parsley, shallot, and garlic in a mortar into a paste. Combine with salt, pepper, wine, cognac, and nutmeg. Combine with butter. Alternately, place parsley, shallot, garlic, salt, pepper, wine, cognac, and nutmeg in the bowl of a mini‑food processor and process until minced. Add butter and process to combine.

2. Preheat oven to 230°C (445°F).

3. Arrange snails in individual wells of escargot plates. Top each with 1⁄12 of the escargot butter. Bake for 9 minutes, or until snails are warm.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Jean‑Pierre Silva, Hostellerie du Vieux Moulin, Bouilland, France, 1997.

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foie gras frais en terrine

400 g (14 oz)

fresh foie gras de canard

Pineau de Charentes

salt and fine, freshly ground pepper

pork fat back, 11⁄2 mm (1⁄16 in) thick

all‑purpose flour and water mixed into a thick paste

12 to 18

baguette slices, lightly toasted

1. Devein foie gras. Place in a non‑reactive bowl and sprinkle with Pineau, salt and pepper. Mix and set aside overnight.

2. Line a 600‑gm rectangular terrine with fat back allowing sufficient excess to fold back over top of terrine. Tightly pack foie gras into the terrine and level top. Fold fat back over the top of the foie gras. Place lid on top of terrine and seal with flour and water paste.

3. Preheat oven to 150°C (300°F). Place terrine a bain marie and fill with hot water half way up the side of the terrine. Bake for about 50 minutes or until a skewer placed through the vent in the terrine lid feels warm when touched to the wrist.

4. Remove from bain marie and refrigerate terrine overnight.

5. To unmold, carefully run a knife around the inside surface of the sides of the terrine. Turn upside down and shake to loosen. Scrape yellow foie gras fat from surface and save for other uses. Trim one end to expose foie gras and serve with baguette slices.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Ref: Pierre Corre, Auberge de la Truffe, Sorges, France, 1997.

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In this unusual fruit salad, each bite is perfumed by the hint of lemongrass. The subtle, lemon flavor is carried over into the meringues. The meringues require a large pan of water, but will shrink substantially as they cook. Just about any combination of ripe, summer fruits will work for this preparation. In the picture below, strawberries, black figs, white peaches, and blueberries were used. The original recipe called for fresh apricots, but these were unavailable when this recipe was prepared, so dried ones were substituted.

île flottante citronnée aux fruits d’été

1 branch

lemongrass, trimmed

250 ml (1 c)

water

200 g (1 c)

granulated sugar

100 g (31⁄2 oz)

fresh or dried apricots

800 g (13⁄4 lb)

summer fruits, bite‑size pieces

3 extra‑large

egg whites

60 g (1⁄3 c)

finely granulated sugar

1 T

lemon juice

1. Cut lemongrass lengthwise a number of times, but leave the last inch of the root end uncut. Fold in half and add to a saucepan with water and sugar. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes. Add apricots and continue cooking for 5 minutes more. Remove lemongrass and discard. Puree mixture in a blender. Set aside to cool.

2. Add fruit to syrup and macerate for a couple of hours.

3. Beat egg whites with a whisk until soft peaks are formed. Add sugar and lemon juice and continue beating until firm peaks are formed. Bring a wide pan of water to a low simmer. Using 2 spoons, dipped in warm water, form 8 quenelles of the egg whites. Cook gently for 3 minutes on each side. Drain on absorbent paper.

4. Divide fruit among serving bowls. Place 2 quenelles on each bowl and serve.

Yield: 4 servings.

Ref: Laurent Duchéne, Cuisiner!, August 1997, page 27.

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