Although we may first think of the Japanese dish sashimi when presented with a plate of uncooked fish, modern French cooking is also resplendent with dishes where the fish has not been exposed to heat prior to serving. Salt, sometimes in association with smoke, usually in combination with drying, has been used for centuries to preserve fish, but usually the end product was still exposed to heat. It is only in the last fifty years or so that uncooked fish has really been part of the French restaurant experience.

A selection of 20 examples of uncooked salmon — saumon non cuit — is presented below. The recipes are divided loosely into four groups. The dishes listed as tartares are all dishes where chopped salmon is exposed to acid for a short period of time before serving. Those listed under marinade liquide are dishes where chunks or slices of salmon are marinated in seasoned oil, sometimes for as long as two days, before serving. In the dishes listed under marinade sèche, salmon filets are coated with seasoned salt and left to cure for one-half to two days. Finally, the last list, fumé, are all dishes that contain smoked salmon as a major ingredient. None of the recipes in the article contain salmon that has been exposed to heat, therefore the title saumon non cuit — uncooked salmon.

150 grams
fresh salmon, finely diced
2 teaspoons
lime juice
2 grams (about 1 teaspoon)
lime zest
15 grams
red onion, finely diced
fleur de sel, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste

1. Combine the salmon with the remainder of the ingredients. Set aside for an hour in a refrigerator.

2. Serve the tartar in individual ramekins.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine et Vins de France, April 2001, page 33.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
100 grams (about 4 slices)
cold smoked salmon
1 gram
chives, cut into 5-mm pieces
3 sprigs
fresh cilantro, for decoration
for tartar:
150 grams
fresh salmon, finely diced
10 grams
shallots, finely diced
1 tablespoon
olive oil
2 teaspoons
lemon juice
2 teaspoons
small capers in brine, rinsed and drained
1 teaspoon
finely minced fresh tarragon
fine salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste
for sauce:
35 grams
mayonnaise
1 tablespoon
heavy cream
1 teaspoon
tomato concentrate
1 teaspoon
crushed pink peppercorns
a few drops
lemon juice
fine salt, to taste

1. Line a small ramekin or small charlotte mold with plastic wrap. Line the plastic with slices of smoked salmon. Set aside.

2. Mix the fresh salmon with the shallots, oil, lemon juice, capers, tarragon, salt, and pepper. Fill the molds with the salmon mixture and fold any extra smoked salmon over the fresh salmon mixture. Chill in a refrigerator for an hour.

3. Combine the mayonnaise, cream, tomato concentrate, pink peppercorns, a few drops of lemon juice, and a little salt.

4. Unmold the salmon onto individual serving plates. Spoon the sauce around the salmon. Decorate with the chives and cilantro.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Guide Cuisine, March 1998, page 16.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
250 grams
fresh salmon, cut into a fine dice
1 teaspoon
lemon juice
1 tablespoon
olive oil
1/2 teaspoon
minced lemon zest
50 milliliters
heavy cream
10 grams
capers in brine, drained
2 teaspoons
lime juice
1 teaspoon
minced fresh tarragon

1. Salt and pepper the salmon. Prepare a vinaigrette from the lemon juice and oil. Add to the salmon and mix well. Add half the lemon zest and mix. Set aside.

2. Combine the cream, capers, lime juice, the other half of the lemon zest, and the tarragon. Season with some salt and pepper. Set aside.

3. Mound the salmon in the center of serving plates. Spoon the sauce around the salmon.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, summer 1999 (supplement), page 75.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
200 grams
fresh salmon, finely diced
125 grams
cold smoked salmon, finely diced
10 grams
grated ginger root
20 grams
shallots
10 grams
minced chives
1 tablespoon
lime juice
1 tablespoon
olive oil
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
12 to 18 thin slices
lime

1. Combine the two salmons, ginger, shallots, chives, lime juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Chill for 15 minutes before serving.

2. To serve, arrange the lime slices in a circle on each serving plate. Mound the salmon mixture on the slices. Sprinkle the top with a few more chives.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: ELLE à Table, March 1999, page 104.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
200 grams
fresh salmon, finely diced
15 grams
minced chives
20 grams
finely diced red onion
6 grams
capers in brine, drained and chopped
6 grams
finely diced dill pickle
30 grams
peeled and finely diced apple
1 tablespoon
mayonnaise
1 tablespoon
lemon juice
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
75 milliliters
heavy cream
10 grams
minced fresh tarragon

1. Combine the salmon, chives, onion, capers, pickles, apple, mayonnaise, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Beat the cream until stiff. Add the tarragon. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Mound the salmon mixture in the center of the serving plates. Place three small quenelles of cream around the salmon on each plate.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Georges Blanc, Cuisine en Famille, 1999, page 57.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
150 grams
salmon, thinly sliced
10 grams
finely minced shallot
1/2 tablespoon
lemon juice
1 teaspoon
green peppercorns, crushed and finely minced
5 grams
chives, finely minced
4 grams
fresh chervil leaves, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon
mild olive oil
1 teaspoon
cognac

1. Arrange the salmon slices in a single layer on the serving plates.

2. Thoroughly combine the remaining ingredients. Spoon the marinade over the salmon slices. Set aside in a refrigerator for 30 minutes before serving.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Madeleine Peter, Favorite Recipes of the Great Women Chefs of France, 1977, page 56.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
200 grams
fresh salmon, thinly sliced
fine salt, to taste
granulated sugar, to taste
1/2 tablespoon
Dijon-style mustard
1/2 tablespoon
coarse mustard
100 milliliters
olive oil
1 tablespoon
lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon
ground white pepper
1/2 teaspoon
crushed pink peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon
ground ginger
3 small
new potatoes, cooked, cooled, peeled, and cut into 2 halves
a few leaves of fresh chervil

1. Arrange the salmon slices on a plate in a single layer. Sprinkle lightly with salt and sugar. Set aside in a refrigerator for 2 to 3 hours.

2. Whisk the mustards, oil, lemon juice, peppers, ginger, and a little salt into a sauce. Pour the sauce over the salmon slices and return to the refrigerator for another 2 to 3 hours.

3. Arrange the salmon slices and potato halves on chilled serving plates. Decorate with a few chervil leaves.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, summer 1998 (supplement), page 47.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
150 grams
fresh salmon
3 tablespoons
olive oil
11/2 tablespoons
lemon juice
2 grams
fresh chervil, finely minced
2 grams
chives, finely minced

1. Slice the salmon into thin, regular slices. Marinate the salmon in the oil and lemon juice for a few minutes, until the acid in the juice starts to blanch the salmon.

2. Drain the salmon slices and sprinkle them with the herbs. Roll the pieces into cigarette shapes and arrange on serving plates.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Georges Blanc, Ma Cuisine des Saisons, 1987, page 30.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
150 grams
fresh salmon
20 grams
carrots, peeled, grooved with a channel knife, and sliced
20 grams
red onion, cut into 2-mm thick slices
150 milliliters
grapeseed oil
1 sprig
fresh thyme
1
fresh bay leaf
3 grams
black peppercorns
3 grams
Szechuan peppercorns
3 grams
coriander seed
2 small
potatoes, cooked, peeled and sliced
sel de Guérande, to taste
freshly ground black pepper
2 grams
fresh chervil, finely minced

1. Skin and bone the salmon. Cut into individual chunks, one per serving.

2. Place the carrot slices, onion slices, oil, thyme, bay leaf, both peppercorns, and coriander seeds in a bowl and mix to combine. Add the salmon pieces, cover the bowl, and refrigerate for 2 days.

3. Remove the salmon from the marinade and drain on absorbent paper.

4. Slice the salmon chunks into a few thick slices each. Place the salmon and potato slices on serving plates. Sprinkle a little sel de Guérande and black pepper on each. Arrange a couple of pieces of carrot and onion on top of the salmon and potatoes, followed by a few drops of oil from the marinade. Finally, sprinkle some chervil over each serving.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Guy Savoy, La Cuisine de Mes Bistrots, 1998, page 48.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
1 teaspoon
lemon juice
2 tablespoons
olive oil
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
5 grams
fresh chervil, minced
150 grams
salmon, thinly sliced
150 grams
shucked, fresh fava beans
1 tablespoon
balsamic vinegar
2
red radishes, thinly sliced
a couple sprigs
fresh parsley

1. Combine the lemon juice with half the oil along with some salt, pepper, and the chervil. Arrange the salmon slices on a plate in a single layer and spoon the sauce over the top. Refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.

2. Cook the fava beans in boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain. Chill in an ice bath. Remove skins from the beans and discard. Drain the beans and set aside until needed.

3. Whisk the remaining olive oil with the vinegar. Season with some salt and pepper. Combine with the fava beans and radish slices.

4. Mound half the fava bean salad in the center of each serving plate. Place the salmon slices in a decorative manner around the salad. Decorate plates with a few parsley leaves.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, April 1999, page 48.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
150 grams
fresh salmon
coarse salt
50 grams
Roquefort cheese, at room temperature
125 milliliters
orange juice, reduced to about 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters)
1 teaspoon
white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon
olive oil
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 pinch
ground cinnamon
50 grams
finely grated carrots
3 grams
minced chives

1. Coat the surface of the salmon with coarse salt and wrap with plastic wrap. Set aside in a refrigerator for 8 hours.

2. Thoroughly rinse the salt off the salmon and dry the surface with absorbent paper. Slice into very thin slices.

3. Crush the cheese with a fork and combine with the reduced orange juice. Set aside.

4. Combine the vinegar, oil, fine salt, pepper, and cinnamon into a vinaigrette and mix with the carrots. Mound the carrots on chilled serving plates.

5. Arrange the salmon slices next to the carrots. Form the Roquefort mixture into quenelles and add to the plate. Sprinkle the chives over the plates.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, summer 1997 (supplement), page 30.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
300 grams
salmon fillet
75 grams
coarse salt
75 grams
granulated sugar
coarsely ground white pepper
20 grams
fresh dill, chopped
11/2 tablespoon
Dijon-style mustard
1/2 teaspoon
sugar
1 tablespoon
cognac vinegar
100 milliliters
grapeseed oil
10 grams
fresh dill, minced
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Place the salmon, skin side down on a plate. Cover the top with a combination of the coarse salt, sugar, white pepper, and chopped dill. Cover the plate with plastic film and place a weight on top. Refrigerate for 2 days.

2. Rinse the salmon to remove the salt coating. Dry with absorbent paper. Cut the salmon into very thin slices.

3. Whisk the mustard, sugar, and vinegar together. Slowly whisk in the oil, drop by drop, to make a mayonnaise. Add the minced dill and season with the salt and pepper.

4. Arrange the salmon slices on chilled serving plates. Serve with the mustard sauce.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Françoise Bernard and Alain Ducasse, La Bonne Cuisine, 1999, page 85.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
20 grams
ginger root, peeled and grated
25 grams
granulated sugar
1/2
fresh bay leaf, finely minced
10 grams
fresh dill, finely minced
25 grams
fine salt
400 grams
fresh salmon
1 teaspoon
white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon
olive oil
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
30 grams
mixed salad greens

1. Combine the ginger, sugar, bay leaf, dill, and salt. Coat the flesh of the salmon with the mixture and set aside in a refrigerator overnight.

2. The next day, thoroughly rinse the salmon and dry with absorbent paper. Slice the salmon into thin slices.

3. Prepare a vinaigrette from the vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper. Dress the mixed greens and divide between the serving plates. Arrange the salmon pieces around the greens.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cusiner!, winter 1998 (supplement), page 39.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
400 grams
coarse salt
1 teaspoon
granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon
ground coriander seed
10 grams
minced fresh dill
1/2 teaspoon
coarse ground black pepper
200 grams
fresh salmon filet, with skin
100 grams
heavy cream
fine salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste
10 grams
minced chives
5 grams
finely minced, flat-leaf parsley
10 grams
finely minced shallots
1/2 teaspoon
Dijon-style mustard
1 teaspoon
cognac vinegar
1 tablespoon
olive oil
40 grams
mixed greens
2 small
white potatoes, cooked, cooled, and peeled

1. Combine the coarse salt, sugar, coriander, dill, and coarse ground pepper. Coat the salmon with the salt mixture and set aside in a refrigerator for 6 hours.

2. Wash the salt off the salmon and dry the pieces well.

3. Whisk the cream until stiff. Season with salt and pepper, and combine with the chives, parsley, and shallots. Set aside.

4. Make a vinaigrette with the mustard, vinegar, and oil. Season with some salt and pepper. Combine the vinaigrette with the mixed greens.

5. Skin the salmon and cut into 1-cm thick slices. Arrange the salmon pieces on serving plates. Slice the potatoes and add the slices to the plates. Arrange some salad greens on the plates. Finally, form the flavored cream into a couple of quenelles and place one on each serving plate.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, January 2000, page 47.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
125 grams
coarse salt
60 grams
granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon
quartre-épices
12 grams
coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon
ground cloves
2
juniper berries
6 grams
lime zest
300 grams
fresh salmon
1/2 tablespoon
lemon juice
1 teaspoon
tomato concentrate
fine salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste
150 grams
avocado, diced
3 grams
chives, minced
1 teaspoon
crushed pink peppercorns

1. Combine the coarse salt, sugar, quartre-épices, black pepper, cloves, juniper berries, and lime zest. Remove the skin and bones from the salmon. Coat with the spice mixture. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 8 hours.

2. Rinse the salmon pieces, dry with absorbent paper, and air dry on a rack in the refrigerator until needed.

3. Combine the lemon juice, tomato concentrate, fine salt, and black pepper. Mix the sauce with the avocado and chives. Mound the mixture in the center of the serving plates.

4. Cut the salmon crosswise into thin slices. Arrange the slices around the avocado. Sprinkle the salmon with the pink peppercorns.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, May 1999, page 42.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
200 grams
asparagus
vinegar
2 large
eggs
1 teaspoon
lemon juice
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
150 grams
sliced, cold-smoked salmon
4 thin slices
lemon
1 teaspoon
minced chives

1. Trim and peel the base of the asparagus spears. Blanch for about 4 minutes. Chill the asparagus in an ice bath. Drain on absorbent paper.

2. Heat some water with a couple of tablespoons of vinegar for poaching the eggs. Poach the eggs for about 4 minutes. Drain and trim any loose pieces.

3. Arrange the asparagus spears on the serving plates. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the salmon slices over the asparagus. Place a poached egg on top of the salmon. Decorate each plate with 2 slices of lemon and a sprinkling of chives.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Guide Cuisine, April 1997, page 28.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
130 grams (about 6 slices)
cold-smoked salmon
3 large
eggs, beaten
30 grams
cold-smoked salmon, diced
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
50 grams
sour cream
20 grams
unsalted butter
2 sprigs (leaves only)
flat-leaf parsley, for decoration
crushed pink peppercorns, for decoration

1. Form the salmon slices into a ring shape on individual serving plates.

2. Combine the eggs with the diced salmon and black pepper. Cook the egg mixture in the top of a double boiler over low heat. Whisk continuously until the mixture thickens. Off the heat, mix in the sour cream followed by the butter.

3. Pour the cooked eggs into the salmon rings. Decorate the eggs with a few parsley leaves. Sprinkle with some pink peppercorns.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, November 1998, page 40.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
50 grams
yellow onion, diced
40 grams
bacon, cut into 2-mm wide strips
10 grams
rendered pork fat
300 grams
raw sauerkraut
5
juniper berries
fine salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
125 grams
dry white wine
2 small
white potatoes
300 grams
smoked salmon, in 2 thick, squared-off fillets
sauce beurre blanc:
10 grams
shallots, minced
freshly ground white pepper, to taste
fine salt, to taste
30 grams
white wine vinegar
60 grams
water
1/2 tablespoon
heavy cream
4 tablespoons
unsalted butter

1. Start the sauce beurre blanc: place the shallots, pepper, salt, vinegar, and water in a small saucepan. Simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, until the mixture reduces. Push the mixture though a fine sieve. There should be about a half tablespoon of puree produced.

2. Sweat the onion and bacon in the pork fat in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the sauerkraut, juniper berries, salt, pepper, and wine. Cover, lower heat, and cook until tender.

3. In the meantime cook the potatoes in boiling, salted water. When done, peel, thickly slice, and set aside. Keep warm.

4. Finish the sauce beurre blanc: return the puree to the saucepan. Add the cream and place over very, very low heat. Whisk in the butter, a little at a time.

5. Heat the salmon pieces slightly in the sauerkraut pot. DO NOT COOK THE SALMON.

6. Remove the salmon pieces from the saucepan. Drain the sauerkraut and divide between the serving plates. Arrange the potatoes and salmon pieces on the sauerkraut. Spoon the sauce over the salmon. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, May 2000, page 56.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
60 grams
trout filets
150 grams
cold-smoked salmon, in large slices
1 large
egg, hard-cooked, cooled, peeled, and sieved
100 grams
avocado, sieved
2 sprigs (leaves only)
fresh cilantro, minced
1/2 teaspoon
green peppercorns, minced
1/4 teaspoon
hot pepper sauce
fine salt, to taste
1 tablespoon
lime juice
6 very thin slices
lime zest, for decoration
6 sprigs
fresh cilantro, for decoration

1. Steam the trout filets for about 10 minutes. Cool fully, then cut into a fine dice.

2. Form the salmon into 2 rectangular slices, about 13 cm by 10 cm, on plastic wrap. Set aside.

3. Cut any salmon scraps into a fine dice and combine with the cooked egg, avocado, minced cillantro, green peppercorns, pepper sauce, salt, and lime juice.

4. Combine the mixture with the cooked trout. Place a line of the mixture in the short dimension of each of the salmon slices. Carefully roll the salmon around the filling and encapsulate the roll in the plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least an hour.

5. Just before serving, remove the salmon rolls from the plastic and cut each into three equal-sized pieces. Arrange the pieces on the serving plates along with the lime slices and a couple of sprigs of cilantro.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisine Actuelle, May 1998, page 47.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.
100 grams
buckwheat flour
1 pinch
fine salt
200 milliliters
water
1/2 tablespoon
unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon
Dijon-style mustard
1 teaspoon
white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon
olive oil
fine salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste
60 grams
mâche (lamb’s lettuce)
100 grams
cold-smoked salmon, cut into 5-mm wide strips
2 grams
minced chives

1. Combine the flour, pinch of salt, and water into a smooth batter. Set aside for an hour.

2. Preheat the oven to 135 °C (275 °F).

3. Using a buttered frying pan, prepare a couple of crepes from the batter using a 90-ml portion for each crepe. Form a “bowl” from the crepe by shaping it over an upside-down, oven-proof bowl. Bake in that position just until it becomes rigid, about 30 minutes.

4. Prepare a vinaigrette from the mustard, vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper. Combine the mâche and salmon. Mix with the vinaigrette.

5. Set the crepes on serving plates. Fill the crepes with the salad mixture. Sprinkle with chives.

Yield: 2 servings.

Ref: Cuisiner!, December 1998, page 57.

©2003, 2014 Peter Hertzmann. All rights reserved.